Car Mechanics (UK)

BRAKE INSPECTION

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33 CHECK BRAKE PIPES

Still at the rear underside of the vehicle, trace the brake pipes to the rear brakes and look for any exposed pipework that may be corroded. Most of the pipework should be protected in sleeving, but exposed sections can be cleaned to ensure they’re in good condition and then coated in a little grease to protect them.

34 CHECK FRONT BRAKE PADS

Remove the caliper by undoing two slider bolts (13mm at the top and 12mm at the bottom). Prise off the caliper to reveal the brake pads, which can be extracted, inspected, cleaned and if their braking material is sufficient

(at least 3mm thick), they can be refitted.

35 RENEWING THE DISCS

Our front brake pads looked quite new, but the discs were corroded and worn, so we had to renew all of them. Remove the caliper carrier by undoing two 17mm bolts that will be tight. Next, carefully undo a Torx T30 locating screw for the brake disc, which can easily shear.

36 REMOVE OLD DISC

Now try to remove the old brake disc. It’ll probably be seized, so wind two M8 bolts into threaded holes on the face of the disc to separate it from the hub. Once removed, clean the mating surface of the hub. Retract the caliper piston using a G-clamp or windback tool.

37 FIT NEW DISCS Clean the new brake discs with brake cleaner to remove any anti-corrosion oil before fitting them and refitting the disclocati­ng screw. We fitted new Bendix discs from GSF Car Parts. Clean, then refit the caliper carrier and tighten its bolts to 89Nm.

38 FIT NEW PADS

Fit the pads with a smear of brake grease to the top and bottom edges. We fitted Bendix pads (which include new 12mm lower slider bolts) from GSF Car Parts. Refit the caliper and tighten the slider bolts to 30Nm. Slowly pump the brake pedal before driving.

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