Clutch pedal
QOn my friends 2007 Freelander 2, the clutch pedal isn’t coming back up and he’s been told it could be the master cylinder leaking internally. He can’t see any signs of it leaking but does that mean it isn’t. We just want to make sure it’s the slave cylinder before embarking on the job of changing it given, they’ve stupidly opted to put it inside the ’box.
Does the subframe need to be fully removed to do this job, or can it be left alone completely or dropped partially one side or both, assuming the latter doesn’t just hamper progress? I’ve seen Youtube videos where people employ this method, and it does nothing but get in the way and hence they spend a lot of time cursing it.
Anthony Pattinson
A
I am presuming from the year of the Freelander that this is the 2.2 diesel engine version. If there is no loss of fluid then the problem could well be the clutch master cylinder on the bulkhead, but if there is any loss of fluid then the problem is more likely to be the clutch slave cylinder in the gearbox bellhousing.
Bleeding the system first, may help, but may not always clarify the source of the problem. The job time to replace the master cylinder is two hours, and the time to replace the slave cylinder and clutch is five hours. The subframe does need to be dropped to replace the clutch and slave cylinder and dropping it completely does make the job a lot easier as it does otherwise get in the way. What can often appear a short cut can often make the job more difficult.
I would in the first instance try bleeding the clutch out, this may be sufficient to indicate any problems and help with the diagnosis.
The locks should not require synchronising, and the setup and synchronization procedure is only for aligning the remote control to the vehicle. I am presuming the operation of the locks is the same when the door key or internal switch is used, and this would suggest that the fault is either the door lock/solenoid or the circuit.
I would start by checking the short section of loom between the body and the door on both the driver’s door and the nearside door, it may be the case that a fracture in the loom from the door function control module in either of the front doors is the source of the trouble.
If this loom is confirmed as good and no breaks can be found, then I would suspect that the lock is the problem and replacing this should rectify the fault.