THE QUEST FOR ETER­NAL STOKE

WIS­DOM FROM ONE OF THE TRUE LE­GENDS OF BRI­TISH SURF­ING

Carve - - FOAM: INTERVIEW - WORDS BY STEVE ENG­LAND PHO­TOS BY COUR­TESY PETE JONES

If you have a look around Bri­tish surf­ing, it is pretty hard to find a more stoked guy than Llan­gen­nith's Pete “PJ” Jones. Owner of PJ’S Surf Shop, for­mer Bri­tish surf team mem­ber, he started surf­ing at Lang­land in 1967 and has pretty much been in the wa­ter ev­ery day since. But what are his se­crets, and can they help you?

1. Try and do a lit­tle bit of yoga ev­ery day. All the el­e­men­tary moves!

2. Live close to the sea where the waves are that you en­joy rid­ing.

3. Marry a good one. Who knows your other wife is the sea.

4. Do a job that is part of your pas­sion in life also.

5. No mat­ter whether the waves are per­fect or small and choppy on­shore days, get in there as much as pos­si­ble.

6. Whether you are re­ally good at it or not doesn’t mat­ter.

7. When you reach OAP di­vi­sion stay younger by the day from the neck up.

8. Let the search for waves be more im­por­tant than the chase for money.

9. Lis­ten to the Gal­lagher and Lyle song: Stay Young Keep Your Wheels in Mo­tion. If that doesn’t give you the stoke, give me a ring!

10. Un­der­stand that eter­nal stoke is a nat­u­ral high, free of charge!

Aloha to all surfers.

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