Anatomy of a surfer

TAKE A PEEK IN­SIDE THE MIND­SET AND ME­CHAN­ICS OF IN­FLU­EN­TIAL SURFERS OF OUR TIME...

Carve - - STUFF -

NAME: REUBYN ASH AGE: 30 HEIGHT: 5’11” NA­TION­AL­ITY: BRI­TISH

What are the build­ing blocks of a world-class surfer? Th­ese days it’s more than tube smarts and a rain-in­duc­ing power hack.

Pro­pri­o­cep­tion

Is a big word that will make you look smart when you drop it in con­ver­sa­tion. In essence, it means the per­cep­tion or aware­ness of the po­si­tion and move­ment of the body. Which, as you can imag­ine, in surf­ing, mainly the aerial flavour, is very help­ful. Know­ing where your arms and other bits are in space with­out look­ing at them is key to mak­ing and land­ing ma­noeu­vres. As one of Europe’s lead­ing aero­nauts, Reubs would prob score 95/100 on it in surf­ing Top Trumps if such a thing was pos­si­ble.

Cre­ativ­ity

Glob­ally style has evolved from dis­tinct re­gional flavours to a more ho­mo­ge­neous whole. That the world's cur­rent style is Cur­ren/slater in­flu­enced is no bad thing. Reubs takes his home reef flow and beach break torque and boosts into new ter­ri­tory fre­quently. Mak­ing up new stuff is how surf­ing pro­gresses. Not many peo­ple are at the bleed­ing edge of pro­gres­sion.

Flex­i­bil­ity

Surfers are ei­ther nat­u­rally blessed or train to be­come bril­liant. All the yoga and gym work can get you stretchy and help re­cover from wild airs and adapt to bar­rels ad hoc. Be­ing born with it then hon­ing it through con­stant push­ing and travel is the other method.

Core strength

A long time ago a young Reubs was of the ’surf­ing is all the train­ing I need’ men­tal­ity. Th­ese days his work­outs, which you get glimpses of on his In­sta, are of the kind that makes us ‘chained to our desks mag­a­zine sorts’ get out of breath just watch­ing.

Strong, flex­i­ble, in­no­va­tive and he knows where his bits are … rea­sons why Reubs is one of the best.

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