DAY IN THE LIFE

BE­HIND THE SCENES OF THE RIP CURL PADANG CUP WITH G MAN

Carve - - CONTENTS - WORDS BY GEAROID MC­DAID PHO­TOS BY CONOR FLANA­GAN

Gearoid Mc­daid and the aw­ful chore of be­ing sent to Bali for work.

Get­ting the call to go surf in the Rip Curl Padang Padang cup was an ex­cit­ing mo­ment for me. To be go­ing to Bali to surf a per­fect slab left with only a few guys what could be bet­ter? The wait­ing pe­riod was one month, so I was go­ing to go for the whole month to wait and hope­fully score some waves around Indo.

The trip didn't start out too great though as when I was fly­ing to Bali the vol­cano there was erupt­ing pretty heav­ily which meant I got stuck in Dubai with no way of know­ing if flights would re­sume. I thor­oughly thought I was go­ing to be go­ing back home. But in the end, it eased off, and I was on a flight from Dubai just a day later. The de­lay was just a taster of some of the mad things that would hap­pen while I was there.

Look­ing at the long-range fore­cast for the month looked like back to back swells non stop. But there was one swell that stood out to­wards the end of the month.

The con­test ran on one of the first swells as they looked pretty epic and you can never be too sure of a long range next swell the guys from Rip Curl made an ex­cel­lent call to run when they did.

There was a lot of talk around the swell at the end of the month in that it was the most sig­nif­i­cant swell ever to come to Indo but as it was still a long way out I wasn't really think­ing about it. As the month pro­gressed we scored some pretty sick waves. Some lit­tle slab mis­sions and we scored pretty pump­ing Ulus with Josh Kerr and Jack Robin­son. And a cou­ple of sick ses­sions at Padang try­ing to has­sle the crowds haha.

The swell that we had been look­ing at for so long was ar­riv­ing, and it held its size and name for be­ing the big­gest swell ever in Indo. There was lots of talk of where to go for the swell, but I wasn't sure what to do and ended up just stay­ing in Bali for it.

I woke up on the morn­ing of the day of days to 30-foot Ulus with a cou­ple of guys tow­ing the mad walls. We went and had a look at Padang but the tide was a bit high, and there were lots of wash-throughs with the odd in-be­tween one go­ing good. I pad­dled out hop­ing that I would get a cou­ple in the gaps in the chaos; but as the tide dropped there were a lot of fun in-be­tween ones. And it ended up be­ing one of the most fun ses­sions I had out there. With the big washthroughs, it meant it kept the crowd quiet, there was a cou­ple of peo­ple out, and we were trad­ing waves and dodg­ing the un­ride­able ones. I had surfed for three hours al­ready, and then my leash broke I tried to swim in, but a colos­sal washthrough came in a pushed me over to this weird slab up the top of Im­pos­si­bles. I was swim­ming for around 40 mins be­fore get­ting to the beach. Pretty wrecked but still an epic ses­sion.

Ob­vi­ously, in Bali, we had a good few Bin­tangs a cou­ple of nights and lots of good times with all the guys there and all the guys in from the con­test. It was a pretty epic ex­pe­ri­ence do­ing a con­test like that and hang­ing with some leg­ends of surf­ing. It was also pretty nice to have some friends from home there like Conor Flana­gan, who I shot with all the time, and Dave 'Spaghetti' Law.

I woke up on the morn­ing of the day of days to 30-foot Ulus with a cou­ple of guys tow­ing the mad walls.

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