Anatomy of a surfer

TAKE A PEEK IN­SIDE THE MIND­SET AND ME­CHAN­ICS OF IN­FLU­EN­TIAL SURFERS OF OUR TIME...

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NAME: STAN­LEY NOR­MAN AGE: 15 NA­TION­AL­ITY: BRI­TISH

Are good surfers born or cre­ated? Prob­a­bly a pinch of both. Bude is cur­rently the breed­ing ground of a good chunk of Bri­tain’s best, not to sure what they’re putting in the wa­ter there but it works.

Youth

Stan may still only be 15 but he’s been in the pub­lic eye for years. Been rip­ping since he was a tiny per­son. When we say small, we mean it, he was the ul­ti­mate mi­cro-grom. The ad­van­tage of youth is learn­ing power. The brain ab­sorbs in­for­ma­tion a lot more ef­fi­ciently while it’s grow­ing. Minds open to new con­cepts makes surf­ing pro­gres­sion a lot eas­ier when you’re a kid. If you started surf­ing at 30, this is your handy ex­cuse for why you’re not punt­ing air-revs: your brain isn't so hot at learn­ing new ideas any more pard.

Froth

One of the ways you be­come a bet­ter surfer is by go­ing surf­ing. The adage is that it takes 10,000 hours prac­tice at any­thing to be­come an ex­pert. Which is roughly 20 hours a week, ev­ery week, for ten years. Stan is a to­tal frother. If there are waves, he doesn’t need telling twice. He’s suited up and skip­ping down the beach be­fore most folks are even pop­ping their fins on. Not sure if he’s hit the 10K mark yet, but he can’t be far off.

Levers

As noted Stan was a small hu­man un­til rel­a­tively re­cently. Now his DNA has given the nod it’s time to grow man-sized he’s shoot­ing up. On a re­cent trip to Snow­do­nia, one of the coaches asked one of the kids if she’d grown a lot re­cently? She had. He could tell. The new long levers and changed cen­tre of grav­ity take some ad­just­ing too. Which is where Stan is now, adapt­ing to the new long levers and mus­cle mass that mean one thing: power. Where Stan takes his surf­ing next is a jour­ney we’re fas­ci­nated to watch.

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