Cheshire Life - - Good Taste -

THE FROZEN MOP the­frozen­

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Review by: He­len War­wick

Mob­ber­ley is known for a lot of things: im­pec­ca­ble houses, sweeps of green­ery, wind­ing lanes... But there’s also its hand­ful of ac­claimed coun­try pubs. The kind you’ll al­ways want to stum­ble across, with roar­ing fires, hearty dishes and glow­ing beer gar­dens as the sum­mer sun trick­les in.

It’s a fer­tile land for rus­tic but re­fined booz­ers, so it’s a brave soul who takes on an old-timer – a reg­u­lar pub, well-loved by the lo­cals, but one that, quite frankly, needed a bit of a pol­ish.

In­tro­duc­ing the spruced-up Frozen Mop – the new­est mem­ber of the Cheshire Pub Co sta­ple whose sis­ter sites in­clude the

Dog at Peover and the Ship Inn at Styal. The re­furb wasn’t just a lick of paint, and when I ducked in­side on a wind­blown even­ing, the place glowed with perked-up wooden beams, ex­posed brick walls, flag­stone floors and a re­newed vigour from a team with grins as wide as the drinks se­lec­tion.

A quick scan of the menu and it’s ob­vi­ous the kitchen team isn’t try­ing to fix what isn’t bro­ken. And if you’re a vegetarian, pre­pare to let out a col­lec­tive cheer at the lengthy meat-free menu. My starter of cured veni­son was fresh and lively with a sprin­kling of pome­gran­ate seeds, orange seg­ments and rocket. Try the plate of gin-cured salmon, too, for a hit of zing. Mains are re­li­ably hearty and they’re all about the solid classics cooked with re­spect – fish and chips, steak and kid­ney pud­ding, steaks. The cov­eted dish of the night was the ke­babs – al­most ev­ery ta­ble had at least one diner fawn­ing over these mam­moth plates, piled with smoky char­grilled meat, pick­led veg and a flat­bread to mop up the meaty juices and minty yoghurt dip.

Else­where, my spe­cial of seabass ar­rived with a crunchy film of skin and cray­fish lin­guine that was del­i­cate and salty and de­li­cious. And puds de­liver a hint of nos­tal­gia (jam roly poly, trea­cle tart, ap­ple pie). My ad­vice? Go big with a sticky tof­fee pud­ding, drenched in the sort of fudgy sauce that’ll keep the lo­cals com­ing back for more. A sweet show­stop­per in a place with bags of charm.

The Frozen Mop has landed.

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