THE FROZEN MOP thefrozenmop.co.uk
Review by: Helen Warwick
Mobberley is known for a lot of things: impeccable houses, sweeps of greenery, winding lanes... But there’s also its handful of acclaimed country pubs. The kind you’ll always want to stumble across, with roaring fires, hearty dishes and glowing beer gardens as the summer sun trickles in.
It’s a fertile land for rustic but refined boozers, so it’s a brave soul who takes on an old-timer – a regular pub, well-loved by the locals, but one that, quite frankly, needed a bit of a polish.
Introducing the spruced-up Frozen Mop – the newest member of the Cheshire Pub Co staple whose sister sites include the
Dog at Peover and the Ship Inn at Styal. The refurb wasn’t just a lick of paint, and when I ducked inside on a windblown evening, the place glowed with perked-up wooden beams, exposed brick walls, flagstone floors and a renewed vigour from a team with grins as wide as the drinks selection.
A quick scan of the menu and it’s obvious the kitchen team isn’t trying to fix what isn’t broken. And if you’re a vegetarian, prepare to let out a collective cheer at the lengthy meat-free menu. My starter of cured venison was fresh and lively with a sprinkling of pomegranate seeds, orange segments and rocket. Try the plate of gin-cured salmon, too, for a hit of zing. Mains are reliably hearty and they’re all about the solid classics cooked with respect – fish and chips, steak and kidney pudding, steaks. The coveted dish of the night was the kebabs – almost every table had at least one diner fawning over these mammoth plates, piled with smoky chargrilled meat, pickled veg and a flatbread to mop up the meaty juices and minty yoghurt dip.
Elsewhere, my special of seabass arrived with a crunchy film of skin and crayfish linguine that was delicate and salty and delicious. And puds deliver a hint of nostalgia (jam roly poly, treacle tart, apple pie). My advice? Go big with a sticky toffee pudding, drenched in the sort of fudgy sauce that’ll keep the locals coming back for more. A sweet showstopper in a place with bags of charm.
The Frozen Mop has landed.