Nordic Sum­mer

From a Mid­sum­mer smörgås­bord to Fika, the taste of a Scan­di­na­vian sum­mer is filled with de­li­cious flavours

Chic & Country - - In Bloom - Recipes: Brontë Aurell Pho­tos: Peter Cas­sidy

Af­ter a long and dark win­ter, the Scan­di­na­vian sum­mer is a spe­cially happy oc­ca­sion when food be­comes a cel­e­bra­tion of colour. Abun­dant pro­duce from fields and forests are used to con­coct the most de­li­cious treats. In Lon­don, we can have a taste of this cui­sine thanks to Dan­ish cook and au­thor Brontë Aurell who runs the Scan­diKitchen Café to­gether with her Swedish hus­band Jonas. The café spe­cialises in Nordic sea­sonal cui­sine and tra­di­tions from Swe­den, Den­mark and Nor­way. It of­fers clas­sic sta­ples, from Fika to Smörgås­bord, but also some sur­pris­ing dishes and in­ter­pre­ta­tions of clas­sic recipes. Brontë's new book is a com­plila­tion of sum­mer recipes (with beau­ti­ful pho­tog­ra­phy by

Peter Cas­sidy) in the spirit of the Scan­di­na­vian con­cept of lagom (not too much, not too lit­tle, but just right). As we Brits would say, it's a per­fect combo of 'naughty' and 'nice' and she has in­deed 'in­cluded plenty of in­dul­gent cakes and bakes, as well as sal­ads and a few leaner din­ners'. Here's a tiny glimpse of the del­i­ca­cies the book will tempt you with ....

Väster­bot­ten Cheese Paj


125 g/1 1/8 sticks but­ter, cold and cubed 200 g/1 1/2 cups plain/all-pur­pose flour pinch of salt

1 egg small dash chilled water (if needed)


3 eggs

100 ml/1/3 cup plus 1 ta­ble­spoon whole milk

250 ml/1 cup plus 1 ta­ble­spoon dou­ble/heavy cream

1/2 tea­spoon paprika

250 g/9 oz. Väster­bot­ten cheese, finely grated salt and freshly ground black pep­per 25-cm/10-inch loose-based tart pan bak­ing beans

Makes 1 large tart

In a food pro­ces­sor, briefly blitz the pas­try in­gre­di­ents to­gether to form a dough, only adding a tiny bit of chilled water if needed to bring it to­gether. If you don’t have a food pro­ces­sor, you can do this by rub­bing the but­ter into the flour with your fin­ger­tips un­til it is crumbly, then adding the rest of the in­gre­di­ents and mix­ing un­til smooth. Wrap the pas­try in cling­film/plas­tic wrap and rest in the fridge for 30 min­utes be­fore us­ing.

Pre­heat the oven to 180°C (350°F) Gas 4. Roll out the chilled pas­try un­til nice and thin and use to line the tart pan evenly. Prick the base with a fork a few times, then line the pas­try with bak­ing parch­ment and fi ll with bak­ing beans. Blind bake in the pre­heated oven for about 12–13 min­utes. Re­move the beans and bak­ing parch­ment and bake for a fur­ther 5–6 min­utes. Re­move from the oven but leave the oven on.

For the fi lling, mix to­gether all the fill­ing in­gre­di­ents ex­cept the cheese, sea­son­ing well with salt and pep­per. Evenly scat­ter the Väster­bot­ten cheese all over the base of the pas­try, then pour over the egg mix­ture.

Re­turn to the oven for about 15–20 min­utes. It’ll puff up quite a bit to­wards the end and will turn golden on top.

It’s done when the mid­dle is set, so do keep an eye on it. Leave to cool be­fore re­mov­ing from the pan and slic­ing.

Note: This dish goes very well with rom­sås, a caviar sauce (pic­tured). To make this, mix to­gether one small jar of red lumpfi sh roe with 3 large ta­ble­spoons of crème fraîche and leave to set. Just be­fore you serve the tart, stir the rom­sås again. Al­ter­na­tively, if you can get real bleak roe (löjrom), serve the tart with a spoon­ful of this caviar and some crème fraîche and fi­nally add some chopped red onion.

Swedish Mess

Hand­ful of flaked/sliv­ered al­monds 400 ml/14 oz. good qual­ity vanilla ice cream

150 ml/2/3 cup whip­ping/heavy cream 1 tea­spoon ic­ing/con­fec­tion­ers’ sugar 3 drops vanilla ex­tract

4 gen­er­ous ta­ble­spoons cloud­berry/ap­ple jam/jelly

4 store-bought meringue nests, lightly crushed

4 dessert glasses or sun­dae glasses

Serves 4

_______________________________ Lightly toast the fl aked/sliv­ered al­monds in a dry fry­ing pan/skil­let un­til golden. Stir them of­ten and take care not to burn them. Set aside un­til needed. Re­move the ice cream from the freezer at this point so that it is eas­ily scoopable. Whisk the cream with the ic­ing/con­fec­tion­ers’ sugar and vanilla us­ing a hand-held elec­tric whisk un­til soft peaks form. Set aside.

Heat the jam/jelly over a low heat in a saucepan or put it in a bowl and give a few short blasts in the mi­crowave un­til just hot.

Split half of the hot jam/jelly be­tween the four serv­ing glasses, then add one crushed meringue to each glass.

Add a spoon­ful of whipped vanilla cream to each, then di­vide the ice cream be­tween the glasses, too. Fin­ish with the re­main­ing whipped cream, then the rest of the jam/jelly – and top with the toasted fl aked/sliv­ered al­monds. Serve im­me­di­ately.

Sum­mer Fruit Roulade with Lemon Thyme


120 g/1/2 cup plus 2 ta­ble­spoons caster/ gran­u­lated sugar

4 eggs

100 g/3/4 cup plain/allpur­pose flour 25 g/1/4 cup ground al­monds

1/4 tea­spoon salt

13/4 ta­ble­spoons but­ter, melted 1 tea­spoon vanilla sugar or ex­tract


1 nec­tarine or peach

120-g/41/2-oz. red­cur­rants

20 leaves fresh lemon thyme, or to taste 1/2 quan­tity of pas­try cream ex­tra red or white cur­rants, to gar­nish ic­ing/con­fec­tion­ers’ sugar, to gar­nish 35 x 30 cm/12 x 14-inch Swiss roll/jelly roll pan, lined with bak­ing parch­ment

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