Tropical hideaway in Brazil
Sarah Marshall visits a gateway to the Atlantic Forest
Weird and wonderful delights are constantly being found in this South American country. But now appreciation of Brazil’s natural riches is extending beyond the Amazon rainforest.
In 2019, the regions of Paraty and Ilha Grande, set midway between major cities Rio and Sao Paulo, were awarded Unesco status for their culture and biodiversity. A 20-minute drive inland from Paraty, former 17th-century sugar cane plantation Fazenda Bananal is one of several ecotourism projects aiming to open visitors’ eyes to the area’s beauty.
A large portion of the 180-hectare farm is dedicated to agroforestry – the practice of bridging the gap between agriculture and forestry by cultivating vegetables, fruit and trees on the same land.
In contrast to the threat of soya bean monoculture that’s responsible for destroying vast swathes of Brazil’s natural habitat, it champions biodiversity, preserves forests, and provides a more affordable food source. Although it teems with as many endemic plants and animals as the Amazon, the Atlantic Forest is woefully overlooked. Largely because an alarming 90% of the tree cover which once blanketed eastern Brazil has been lost since the 16th century. What remains, though, is staggeringly beautiful. Originally inhabited by Guaianas Indians, Paraty (meaning ‘river of fish’) was commandeered by Portuguese explorers in 1597. It rose to prominence as a pivotal point in the Rota do Ouro, transporting gold to Europe.
Red pillars marking the route still line corkscrew mountain roads into the museum-piece port town, where – despite a tumultuous past of rising and falling fortunes, with sugar, coffee and slaves subsequently traded – many of the original pastel-hued stone buildings still exist.
Another throwback from the past is the town’s intentional flooding. When I arrive at 5pm, a high tide has transformed Paraty into a minivenice. Ornate metal pineapples decorating facades – once a symbol of wealth – are reflected alongside towering palms in glassy pools, giving the impression this tropical colonial showpiece is floating. Buildings were constructed slightly lower than sea level, with concave streets to allow water to flow in and sanitise the town, explains local guide Priscila Albernaz Maciel. Once a centre of trade and commerce, Paraty now nurtures more creative talents.
In the 1970s, film stars, artists and musicians discovered the town, converting buildings into cafes, restaurants, bars and hotels. Located in the historic centre, restored boutique hotel Pousada Literaria has a million stories to tell – many stored in the pages of the books displayed in every room.
How to plan your trip
Coxandkings.co.uk offers a seven-night trip to Paraty from £2,599pp (two sharing). Includes flights, transfers, a guide and accommodation at the Pousada Literária de Paraty on a B&B basis.