Tech-Home Service

Even with the loosening of lockdown, you might still want to consider servicing your own vehicle at home. Editor Ben K le menz son gives the Classic American Jeep a basic service with help from those generous folks at Old Hall Performance who provided all the oil sand lubricants required ...

For many of us, servicing our own vehicles at home just isn't practical; we haven't the time or the facilities, or even the tools or service items required. Far easier to just drop the vehicle off at your local American-friendly mechanic or garage and pick it up later with a wave of the credit card. During lockdown that's not been so easy, with many garages shut and only essential journeys allowed - indeed, the Government's suspension of MoTs for six months shows that it considers car servicing and MoTs not to be 'essential' ... well, for six months at least!

In a way, it's been a great excuse for many of us who, while we're aware of the principles, seldom get stuck into servicing our cars. Another factor, which will become increasingly important for many, is cost. If you do your own servicing, then all you're paying for are the service parts and oils. A basic service just involves changing all the regular oils and filters in your vehicle, whether it's a classic or modern, and will ensure your vehicle's longevity, as well as its reliability and ultimately its safety.

A basic service is something that pretty much any shade tree mechanic should be able to tackle, even if it's the first time and the principles remain the same for classic and modern vehicles ... although in the case of the latter they may be a little more complex, as, unlike older vehicles - where manufacturers almost assumed that many owners would service their own vehicles - the opposite is true when it comes to modern cars and trucks.

Oil and filter change

To flush or not to flush? That is the question ... much like flossing or gas versus charcoal barbecues, this is one of those issues on which everyone has an opinion. Personally, I think flushing the engine makes sense, maybe not for every oil change, but certainly now and then. I used AMSOIL Engine and Transmission Flush which claims to 'dissolve and disperse sludge, varnish and deposits formed in engines and transmissions' and 'cleans deposits in oil cooler and ports'.

While not so necessary for cars used regularly, for classic cars which spend long periods of time standing idle and not being used, this is more of an issue. You just pour it in the oil filler, switch the engine on and idle for 10 to 15 minutes and you're ready to change the oil. Our Jeep luckily is quite high off the ground, so it's possible to change the oil and replace the filter without a pit or raising the car. If you don't have a pit or access to a ramp, then jacking the car up and putting it on axle stands or ramps are the safest options, although never attempt to do any work under a car while it's raised and resting on a jack alone.

Draining the oil is pretty straightforward; use of disposable gloves is wise when dealing with used engine oil. Simply find the sump plug, usually at the lowest point on the engine sump, remove and allow to drain into a suitable oil drain pan, for disposal at your local recycling centre.

Likewise, removing the oil filter is a pretty straightforward affair, although if it's a bit tight, then buy a clamp tool which tightens around the filter, enabling it to be removed using a socket set. Even if you don't use a flush, it's still recommended to run the engine for 10 minutes or so, to warm the oil up, make it less viscous and ensure it all drains out. »

Once the oil has all drained out, refit the sump plug. In our case we managed to strip the sump plug (it happens!) so obtained a Gold Plug Magnetic Sump Plug from Old Hall. These are constructed from a 303 stainless steel body that houses the strongest, highest temperature, N45SH neodymium magnet available. The super-strong neodymium magnet collects any swarf or wear particles missed by the oil filter; these particles are abrasive and potentially damaging to the engine. The magnet will hold any collected metal firmly, unaffected by temperature variation until the oil is changed next time. For a high-mileage old vehicle this would seem a particularly good idea.

With the oil filter, firstly fill it with the oil you'll be refilling the engine with, wipe a mist of oil around the rubber seal and make sure the rubber seal from the old oil filter just removed isn't still attached to the engine. Screw the oil filter back on and top up the engine with oil to the correct level. We used AMSOIL Signature Series5w30 Engine Oil, which is a fully synthetic engine oil that offers guaranteed protection for up to 25,000 miles or one year.

Obviously different types and eras of vehicle will require different types of oil, so make sure you get the correct one - your supplier/motor factors should be able to ensure you get the right one. And remember, oil is like most things in life: you get what you pay for, so that gallon jug at a car boot sale for £1.99 might seem like a bargain, but could end up trashing your engine.

After you've filled the engine with oil, start the engine and let it idle for a few moments. Stop the engine, check the oil level again with the dipstick and top up if necessary.And there you go, you've completed one of the most fundamental and important elements of any basic servicing: regular oil and filter changes with high-quality components and fluids will ensure the longevity of your vehicle's engine and is the most essential element of any servicing regime.