How much use will it get? Do you like working on bikes or just riding them? What will you use it for?
If you're used to a modern bike with turnkey reliability, power aplenty and you are planning to cover decent miles, then a later bike, maybe even a modern retro-styled bike, would be best.
If, on the other hand, you're after something for the monthly VMCCbimble, then you can look for something a little older, even an oddball. However, if you're after a project to provide time and solace in the workshop, then you need to look for spares availability and if wise, a project that's as complete as possible. Oh, if only I'd been told this before ...
Unless you grew up with British bikes, identifying which classic is your own particular dream may be tricky. Many bikes had several names, yet often there were prewar and postwar models with the same name, yet totally different. Then there were the technology changes as models evolved - unit or pre-unit, girder forks or tele-forks, rigid, plunger or swinging arm frames, side valve, overhead valve or overhead cam engines.
And is the reg original? What is easy too easy - to get wrong, is the exact spec, and as a result, the price.
There are, for example, many different Triumph Bonnevilles, and if you decide that your life will only be complete if shared with a Bonnie then you need to know which sort of Bonnie you want to share it with. It all sounds simple, but it's not. Sometimes. If you know you want a 1965 Tl20TT and nothing else, you'll be fine.
Sticking with the Bonnie idea, if you want the whole 1950s Rockerthing- complete with pre-unit charm, genuine Edward Turner styling and a glorious tangerine paint job then you are not going to be happy with a 1972 Tl20 rather than a Tl20 from 1959
This applies to all marques and all models. Before you spend your money, ride a few of the bikes on your shortest short list. Join the relevant owners' club, join the club before you spend your money - so you can meet owners, maybe even ride their bikes, and learn about the reality of life with your dream bike. This is essential.
If you've narrowed it down to a couple of candidates, chosen whether you want a concours machine, runner or project, it's now a case of looking at prices. Classic bikes don't benefit from an industry-wide price guide, such as Glasses Guide or the CAPbook. Prices are whatever people think their bike is worth, or what they feel they can get for it. The prices in this publication are purely there as a rough guide, taken from our own classifieds, auction prices and industry experts, but they're just a guide. There's no easy way around this, you just need to do your homework.
You need to become an expert. Follow bikes online, in auctions and from dealers. And of course, they will all be different and in different conditions. Do the numbers match? Are you bothered if it's reflected in the price? After all, most bikes will be more than half a century old and rarely original. Look at a bike that seems okay apart from some tarnished mudguards and iffy spokes. Budget at least £125 per wheel and mudguards, depending on whether you can find new/old stock or if you're happy with pattern parts, for around £300. Paintwork is getting more and more expensive. Don't trust the bloke who says he'll do it for a couple of hundred - you'll regret it. In fact, be careful who you do trust. Ask around; there are a lot of 'experts' out there ...
Never lose sight of your goal - there are minefields, but once through you should have a depreciation-free way of having a lot of fun. We hope this guide inspires you and remember should you have any questions, please contact us at editor@classicbikeguide.com. Enjoy.