Hutch’s workshop tips and tales – making cables

In the first of a new series, we welcome top old-bike engineer, Hutch, and his tips from the workshop. This month, making new cables

This month in a new series, resident professional, Hutch, gives his tips on making cables

My Velocette KTS needs cables. These small jobs seem to take far more time than bolting all the big parts together and are far less enjoyable than seeing a bike taking shape from a pile of bits. The bike needs new cables throughout. Normally I buy new cables to suit where possible as it usually works out cheaper than making your own (some classic Jap bikes excepted). But as with many old bikes, my Velo is not completely standard. I’m not enough of a rivet counter to worry about this, but it does mean standard cables don’t always fit, so making them is the best option. Fortunately I have old cables for the throttle and choke cables I am going to make, which will act as patterns. The first job is to fit them to the bike and make sure all the fittings, lengths and adjustments are ok. I measured the old inner cable diameters; the throttle was 1mm and choke 1.5mm. I am using 1.5mm for both on the new cables, mostly as that’s

what I have, but make sure it’ll fit through the carb slide before going any further.

I always like to make up the outer cables first, ensuring I have all the correct fittings, nipples, ferrules, etc. I’m fortunate as I have a workshop cable kit to pick from, but all the components are available individually and even so I had to shorten a couple of ferrules on the lathe so they didn’t stand too proud of the carb top. Cutting the inner and outer cables needs a good straight cut for which I use a Parrotnosed

cutter; other methods and cutters are available. I use outer cables with a lining already fitted – just remember not to lubricate the cable as it can make the lining swell.

Once the outer cable is made up and looks ok I move on to the inner cable, I like to fit the first nipple to the inner cable before fitting it through the outer, just for ease of handling. First I fit the appropriate nipple on the inner cable, open end towards the end of the cable, and then spread the wire end into

a 'nest'; this is possibly one of the most difficult and critical parts of cable making, which I find more difficult on smaller diameter cables. For this I use a home-made fixture held in the vice. Once formed, I pull the nest into the open end of the nipple.

Now comes the soldering bit. I use a harder Tinmans solder (i.e. not electrical) in a solder pot, which is made from an old plumbing fitting and heated over a gas ring. I’m not keen on using flames directly on to a cable as the heat can affect the cable and you can’t see the solder capilliary through the nipple so well. As with all soldering, cleanliness is crucial. I dip the nipple/cable end first into Bakers Fluid to clean it, then straight into the solder pot, keeping the very top of the nipple above the surface of the molten solder. That way I can look for the solder working its way through the nipple. I usually count to 20 once I submerge in the solder pot, then 20 again once I remove the nipple to let the solder solidify. It's then just a case of cleaning the nipple up a little with a file.

Measuring the inner cable up to the old one, I cut it long by a couple of inches, using the parrot-nosed cutters again, and feed the inner into the new outer all the way through and the right way round (ahem). It's then just a case of marking where the second nipple needs to fit, sliding it on and cutting the inner cable to length, remembering to leave a little extra for forming the 'nest', then soldering as before.

Remember, it doesn’t matter if you make cables longer or shorter than standard, it’s the amount of 'free' inner cable that is important to function. Many modern bought cables have ends that are formed as nipples, as opposed to soldered-on brass nipples; these cables are often stainless and don’t solder well, should you think of trying.

Here’s what we have to replicate.

A workshop cable-making kit has all the different parts needed for most bikes – but pre-war Velocettes?

Solder bar, soldering pot, cooker, Baker's Fluid for cleaning, and pliers so you don't get burned. A simple jig to hold the cable in the right place so you can make a 'nest' at the end. Below: Soldering the nipple for around 20 seconds in a homemade soldering pot, then letting it harden for a further 20 seconds.

Below: Finally, two new cables ready to use.

Above: Once filed, this is what you should end up with.