Ren­o­va­tion Spares’ uni­ver­sal blades are cut to length. First step is to po­si­tion it so it looks right and clears the tyre; I find bits of ex­panded foam pipe lag­ging help here. 2

I’ve worked out where I want to cut it; mark­ing across with a square will keep the cut level. Mark an apex point ahead of these marks if you want a curved cut. 3

Don’t laugh! This split log, planed off and screwed to a piece of bat­ten, is my spe­cial tool for cut­ting mud­guards – they’re ex­tremely awk­ward things to hold... 4

You need a log of the cor­rect di­am­e­ter to match the mud­guard, then you can G-clamp it in­side and hold the bat­ten se­curely in the vice. See, it works! 5

I find it dif­fi­cult to saw at an an­gle; tilt­ing the log to the cor­rect an­gle in the vice en­ables me to cut ver­ti­cally down­ward to pro­duce the right curve neatly. 6

Brack­ets are easy to bend; the trick is to make sure it’s you, not the metal, de­cid­ing where the bend will be by use of suit­able pro­file for­m­ers and care­ful clamp­ing. 7

This lathe chuck is close to the right ra­dius. With­out the G-clamp, the strip will lift to a point at the apex like a Gothic arch, where force cre­ates a weak point. 8

It’s a smooth curve, but I need to pull it in at the sides a bit to fit un­der the bead of the mud­guard. Al­ter­ing just a part of the curve de­mands a much smaller for­mer. 9

Pack­ing the round bar with a block en­ables the bracket to fit in the vice to be tweaked. Hav­ing a good se­lec­tion of scrap of­f­cuts makes all the dif­fer­ence!

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