Classic Car Weekly (UK)

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

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IS IT OIL-TIGHT?

Engines are generally tough, although the cramped packaging can make maintenanc­e a knuckle-skinning affair. Look for excessive smoke, indicating internal wear, and for oil leaks from around the timing chain case and sump. Lack of use dries out seals and gaskets, so frequently­driven examples retain their oil better. Parts for the 700 engines can be hard to find and pricey, but simplicity means major engine overhauls are a DIY propositio­n.

GLASSFIBRE BODY

The usual caveats apply for a glassfibre body – look for cracks, crazing, and bodged repairs. Complete tubs are available secondhand, and you can find some new sections such as the nosecone (around £200). The canopy is no longer available, but the Bug Club is working on this. It contains metal inserts which corrode and expand, cracking the glassfibre – look for bulges, damage around the hinges and strut fixings, and misalignme­nt.

CHASSIS ROT

Beneath the Bug is a steel chassis – a shortened and modified version of the one used by the Reliant Robin. Be sure to check it for corrosion. The top rail is a common trouble spot, and also pay particular attention to where the body is riveted on. Chassis replacemen­t is a DIY task, but it’s quite involved, so think before taking on a project; expect to pay about £1000 for a new one. To check the car’s history, look for the VIN plate in the passenger footwell.

COOLING SYSTEM

Look for a healthy cooling system, because the all-alloy engines suffer if neglected. Regular flushes keep sludge and sediment at bay and proper anti-freeze levels are the key to longevity. Check for a corroded radiator and for leaks from the water pump. Ensure that core plugs are secure and not corroded or weeping, and keep an eye on the temperatur­e gauge for any sign of overheatin­g.

GEARBOX ANd CLuTCh

Beware a noisy gearbox or any difficulty selecting gears. Replacemen­t ’boxes are getting hard to find now, so you could well be looking at a specialist rebuild. Early ‘boxes lacked synchromes­h on first gear, so brush up your doubledecl­utching skills. Check for oil leaks from the unit, along with hydraulic fluid loss from the clutch slave cylinder and pipework. An oil leak from the back axle could also mean contaminat­ed brakes.

ELECTRICAL GREMLINS

The Bug’s cabin couldn’t be simpler, so just check for shabbiness or damage. Replacemen­t parts and trim are available – the Bug Club is a great resource here – but do ensure the electrics are okay, especially the gauges. Items such as the fuel tank sender (shared with the Regal van) are hard to come by. And make sure that the canopy lock is present and correct because it’s another rare part that could cost £200 when you do find one.

SuSpENSION ANd STEERING

Suspension is simple, so a check for weeping dampers and worn bushes should suffice, along with looking for corroded rear trailing arms. Original dampers aren’t available, and aftermarke­t items can be pricey. Perished seals and wear and tear are the likely extent of any brake issues; replacemen­t parts are available. Check the worm-andpeg system for oil leaks from the steering box, and for cracks where it mounts to the chassis.

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