BUYING TIPS

1 IS IT A GENUINE TURBO?

Back when MG

Maestro EFIs were cheap, it wasn’t that uncommon to see replica Maestro Turbos being created. There’s nothing wrong with these per se, just don’t pay for one thinking you’ve got a genuine car. Check it has all the key Turbo items like power steering, electric windows and a 150mph speedometer – there’s no reason a genuine car wouldn’t have these.

2 CHECK THE RUST TRAPS

The Maestro doesn’t rust any worse than other cars of the 1980s, but there’s a number of places they often corrode. The lower edges of the rear tailgate are very susceptible, as are the rear arches. More unusually, the top of the windscreen surround is known to corrode, which will cause leaks into the interior. It’s crucial to catch this early while a repair (with windscreen removed) is possible. Well-developed rust here will be enough to scrap most Maestros.

3 WHINING GEARBOX?

The PG1 gearbox was close to its limit with the amount of torque the Maestro Turbo is able to put out (peak torque is 169lb ft at 3500rpm), which combined with the way the car encourages hard driving, means many gearboxes have had tough lives. Listen out for whining and feel for any notchiness in the synchros while changing gear. Some cars will have had their gearboxes replaced with the sturdier items used in the 820 Vitesse – as long as the gearbox is in good condition this is a desirable upgrade.

4 DRIP, DRIP, DRIP

The O-series is prone to leaking oil, but where that leak comes from is the important bit. The head gasket often leaks outwardly near the distributor, but this isn’t too serious and is easily rectified. Oil at the bottom of the bellhousing will almost certainly be the crankshaft oil seal however, and this is a much more involved job to sort out.