What to look for
CHASSIS ASSESSMENT
The separate chassis rots and can only be repaired properly in some (but not all) places with the body removed. The worst-affected areas are usually the differential mounting brackets and the centre section of the chassis, while flexing can crack a TR4A chassis. Poorly repaired accident damage is a possibility; even small parking nudges can cause distortion, so check the front suspension turrets, the mounting brackets, outriggers, steering rack mountings and suspension.
HAS IT BEEN RESTORED?
TR4s weren’t put together especially well on the production line, but most will have been restored by now and a badly rebuilt car will be a lot more hassle than starting with an unrestored example. Check the door gaps – these can open up at the top if the chassis has been weakened by corrosion or if the car hasn’t been properly braced during sill replacement work. Another sign of a bodged rebuild is missing beading along the seam between the top of the rear wings and the adjacent deck.
CHECK THE ROT SPOTS
Make sure that the doors, wings, sills and floorpans aren’t rotten. The drain holes should be obvious on the underside of the sill; if they’re blocked, the sills will likely be corroded inside. The tops and bottoms of both the doors and wings can rust away, so inspect the inner and outer wings very carefully. The battery sits behind the engine and the metal beneath it corrodes, so remove the battery to inspect for rot. The B-posts and door tops rust, as does the lip of the boot lid.
LOOK AT THE CAR’S CABIN
All interior trim is available but Surrey tops are very pricey and rare. Any electrical parts are easily sourced, including replacement looms, but you’ll have to remove the dashboard to get to the rack if the wipers are playing up. Speaking of the dash, check the condition of the wood – it can be prone to lifting and cracking at the edges. If the heater unit seems to be ineffective, it may simply be because the air vent at the base of the windscreen is closed.
IS IT JUMPING OUT OF GEAR?
The four-speed gearbox is tough, but the bearings will start to grumble after 100,000 miles and it’ll jump out of gear. A rebuilt gearbox is £600 exchange (£1200 with overdrive). Overdrive was optional and gives few problems, except for easy-to-fix electrical issues. Clutches can be problematic if not set up properly. Make sure that the clevis pin – which connects the clutch pedal to the master cylinder – isn’t worn and that the slave cylinder is mounted with the bleed nipple facing upwards so that the hydraulics can be bled properly.
DOES IT LEAK?
The 2138cc four-cylinder engine is simple, strong and reliable. It will clock up 100,000 miles before it needs signifi cant attention, although oil leaks from the timing chain cover are common. The scroll seal at the rear of the crankshaft also leaks, but not enough to be a problem. Once up to temperature, expect 70psi oil pressure when cruising.