WHAT TO LOOK FOR

LOOK FOR CORROSION

Although impressively rust-resistant compared to its rivals, now’s the time to check that incipient corrosion isn’t nibbling away at panels and seams. Check the wings and wheel arches, and pay special attention to the rear of the sills where tell-tale bubbling could be rearing its head. Faded paintwork and/or lifting/missing lacquer is a potential issue, and check for missing or damaged exterior trim and fittings; sourcing some bits could be problematic now, especially the chrome trim around windscreens and windows, although a trawl of the internet often unearths a decent supply of parts.

CHECK BUSHES AND JOINTS

Normal wear and neglect aside, there’s little trouble to be expected with the brakes and consumable parts easy to source. However, check that the ABS on later cars is operational and the warning light illuminates and extinguishes correctly; tracking down replacement parts could be tricky. Suspension-wise, it’s a case of checking for tired springs and dampers, failed rear suspension bushes and wear in the front lower ball joints. The latter’s lower wishbones were different on post-1993 cars, so ensure that you get the right part and inspect all mountings for corrosion. Power steering definitely improves the driving experience but check for fluid escaping from the pump, pipework or rack. Watch for ageing, mismatched tyres and corroded alloy wheels.

ANYTHING MISSING INSIDE?

Reviving a shabby interior could prove a headache when it comes to finding replacement trim, while dashboards on early cars are often fragile, so watch for cracks and other damage. Electrically, it’s a case of ensuring that everything works, checking for jammed electric windows and sunroofs, plus failed central locking. Iffy immobilisers are a pain to fix and do make sure that air conditioning and heater controls are working because parts are increasingly expensive and hard to track down. Broken switchgear and failed indicator stalks on early examples are other bothers.

EXAMINE THE FLOORS

Cracked and damaged bumpers will involve a search for second-hand replacements – budget £100 or so – and check that body kits aren’t damaged or harbouring rot where they attach. Get a good look underneath – rust in the cabin and boot floors isn’t uncommon, and the front crossmember can also succumb to rot – although repairs here aren’t especially difficult. A car that’s had additional rust-proofing over the years is good news.

LOOK FOR SIGNS OF CARE

Check for evidence of regular oil and filter changes and that the cambelt has been renewed every 36,000 miles/three years; failure risks a fourfigure bill for an engine rebuild. The parts are cheap and it can be done by a competent DIY-er. A healthy cooling system and proper antifreeze levels are equally important. Sourcing replacement coolant hoses can be difficult, so perished ones

may have been ignored.

IS IT SMOKY?

Most 405 engines are shared with other PSA models, so finding parts shouldn’t be difficult. More likely are maladies resulting from neglect or mega-mileages, so look for the usual signs of oil-burning (early petrol engines suffered premature wear of valve stem oil seals – look for puffs of blue smoke on start-up), camshaft wear and a rumbling bottom end. Petrol engines that run poorly or struggle to start when hot could be suffering carburettor or fuel-injection issues that may require specialist attention. Diesels will soldier on forever with proper maintenance, but watch for cylinder head gasket leaks.

CLUTCH CONCERNS

Check for a baggy gearchange and whines and graunches on high-milers. A heavy clutch pedal probably means renewal is imminent and one that sinks to the floor means that the clip retaining the linkage between the pedal and cable has broken. It’s an easy fix and lubricating the new clip prevents future problems. A slipping or jerky auto ‘box is ready for an overhaul, although a history of fluid changes should have kept trouble at bay. Four-wheel-drive models are rare, but the rarity and expense of parts means that extreme caution is needed; get a specialist to check the car over before you commit to buying.