Classic Car Weekly (UK)

WHAT TO LOOK FOR

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LOOK OUT FOR MISSING TRIM

Check underneath for any cracking or rot in the floorpan and watch for tin-worm aff ecting the jacking points and suspension mounts. And if the paintwork is badly faded, weigh up whether a profession­al respray is going to be cost-eff ective. Damaged bumpers, lights and glass are other potential woes and will mean a hunt for secondhand parts. Exterior trim can prove hard to come by, so consider widening your search to Europe where the 19 is more plentiful.

CHECK THE CAR’S RECALL

The 19 was the subject of a few recalls; evidence that they’ve been attended to is probably long gone, but still worth checking out. The first was in 1993 to check 16v models for cracked upper front suspension mountings. 1994 saw 1.9 diesel models with air-con (built May 1991-June 1992) recalled because of chafed left-hand front fog lamp wiring and Phase 2 16vs were checked for loose bonnet catches and faulty seat belt pre-tensioners.

HAS THE ENGINE BEEN THRASHED?

Wear and tear and general neglect present the biggest problems, so check that fl uids and filters have been refreshed on a regular basis. A grotty cooling system, excessive smoke and major oil/coolant leaks are bad news, while cambelts (some engines use a chain) need changing at least every 60k miles/five years; it’s a DIY task if you’re confident with the spanners. Service items are easy enough to fi nd and, depending on the engine, some parts are shared with its Mégane successor. Ensure that a 16-valve engine hasn’t been thrashed and abused, and that ailing fuel or ignition systems aren’t causing poor running. A leaking bonnet vent seal causes water to collect in the spark plug wells, leading to misfires. Hot-starting issues can also afflict 16v cars – high exhaust temperatur­es cook the starter motor.

TROUBLESOM­E GEARBOXES

Manual gearboxes aren’t especially fragile but keep an ear out for whining bearings, disappeari­ng synchromes­h and – on the

16v – clutch slip. The automatic transmissi­on has been known to suffer from control unit issues, so be on the look-out for jerky or sluggish shifts and check that the kickdown operates as it should. You should also check for oil leaks and worn driveshaft CV joints or perished and leaking gaiters.

CHECK FOR ROTTEN PANELS

Despite Renault’s boast of employing thicker steel and improved corrosion protection, rust is likely to be the biggest problem with a potential purchase. It can break out anywhere, but pay particular attention to the

CHECK THAT IT ALL WORKS

The braking system is thoroughly convention­al and straightfo­rward enough to overhaul on a DIY basis, but care is needed if an anti-lock system is fitted. The optional Bendix system fitted to Phase 1 models can be problemati­c and some owners resort to removing it altogether. The later Bosch set-up is more reliable, but in either case make sure that the front wings, door bottoms, sills and wheel arches; the area ahead of the rear arches rots from the inside, so it will be too late by the time you spot any external bubbling. The plastic side skirts fitted to 16v models act as a dirt trap, and can hide frilly sills. relevant warning lights illuminate and extinguish correctly upon start-up. Seized or weak rear calipers can be an issue, too. Tired springs and dampers and perished bushes are the usual suspension woes and watch for rotten damper top mounts. 16v front strut parts are getting scarce, but there are solutions out there. Power-steering leaks and noisy wheel bearings aren’t uncommon, either.

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