WHAT TO LOOK FOR
CHECK THE ANTI-FREEZE
All engines are generally hardwearing. The cooling system contains anti-freeze that was intended to last throughout the car’s life. The problem is that the corrosion inhibitors will be used up after two years and the cooling system clogs up with mucky silt, leading to overheating. So it’s recommended that anti-freeze is kept at full strength and replaced every other year, or the engine liner seals deteriorate. This is especially crucial on cars recently imported from a warm climate. Oil and oil filter changes should be undertaken every 5000 miles. No misxhout. Timing chains rattle but rarely fail.
LOOK FOR WEAR AND TEAR
Check the driveshaft gaiters – they can split, allowing dirt in which causes premature wear. The handbrake on the TL attaches using caged nuts that can work loose over time; welding on captive nuts fixes the problem but it’s difficult without a stripdown; new caged nuts and threadlock usually solve it. Fitting a new clutch means unbolting the steering rack – ensure both bolts are replaced as it’s not unknown for re-used bolts to shear off. Rear dampers mount horizontally, and only Renault 4 specific dampers should be used, because the rebound rate is about twice the compression rate.
INSPECT THE CAR’S CHASSIS
The biggest trouble spot on the Renault 4 is its chassis, particularly where the rear suspension attaches – rust hides in the double-skinned section just to the rear of the inner suspension mounting. It’s obscured by the suspension damper and only visible from under the car. If you catch it in time the area can be patch-panelled, but the job should only be done by a specialist. Poor repairs using thicker metal can affect rear wheel alignment, leading to rapidly wearing rear tyres. The correct procedure involves taking out the rear suspension, fuel tank and much of the interior then welding in flush new metal.