Classic Car Weekly (UK)

A HEAD OF STEAM

Chris had never done a coolant change himself – now he’s wondering why he was so worried about it

- CHRIS HOPE FEATURES EDITOR

1980 TRIUMPH TR7 FHC

In my update right at the end of last year, I signed off 2020, not by hoping for more car shows to go to or dry days in which to enjoy my TR7 without a massive clean-up mission afterwards, but that the wiring work done by Robsport had cured it of its battery drain issue.

Well, I’m pleased to inform everyone that… I’m still in the dark on that one. The battery needs to be connected in order for me to find out if the battery is being drained, and living in the hope of punctuatin­g the monotonous (albeit necessary) stayat-home routine with essential trips to the shops in the TR7, I’ve always left the cap on the battery isolator unscrewed so I don’t need to worry about it starting when I want to use it. I’ll experiment eventually, but in the meantime I’ve changed the coolant.

Old hands may scoff at this admission, but I’ve never done this myself until now. I have, of course, paid others to do it in line with maintenanc­e schedules, but I’ve always seen it as something that I couldn’t trust myself to do properly. Much of that notion stems from my first classic being a mid-engined Toyota MR2, which had a lot of plumbing between the radiator and the 4A-GE twin-cam – and plenty of potential for air locks.

However, with time on my hands and having already done an oil change, I felt I should give it a go.

I read the Haynes manual’s entry several times over and asked Robsport mechanic, Ben, for advice. He explained that the process is straightfo­rward so long as I remember to undo the block tap bung on the side of the engine.

Emptying the old coolant was easy enough. I removed the aforementi­oned bung and then the hose that attached to the lowest point of the radiator. The coolant followed freely but I poked the inside of the engine with a screwdrive­r regardless as Ben told me that sediment can build up here. With the system empty, it was simply a case of replacing the bung (having first fitted a fresh washer) and re-attaching the coolant hose. I then topped the system up with fresh coolant via the overflow reservoir.

To test that I’d done the job properly and hadn’t introduced any air locks, I gingerly drove to a shop in a nearby village, giving the 2.0-litre fourpot time to come up to temperatur­e and so its owner could get some milk for a celebrator­y brew. The temperatur­e needle stayed resolutely in the middle of its gauge and the system hasn’t required any top-ups since. Go me!

By the time this issue has gone to press Boris will have already revealed his road map out of coronaviru­s restrictio­ns. And just as we might have some certainty on when he can all enjoy car shows again, I might know for sure if the battery drain issue has been cured by my next update.

 ??  ?? Adhering to lockdown rules has kept Chris’ TR7 in the garage for the most part, but it has seen occasional outings.
Adhering to lockdown rules has kept Chris’ TR7 in the garage for the most part, but it has seen occasional outings.
 ??  ??
 ??  ?? Removing the bottom hose allowed any coolant left in the system to flow out.
Removing the bottom hose allowed any coolant left in the system to flow out.
 ??  ?? Old coolant followed freely from the block tap once the bung was removed.
Old coolant followed freely from the block tap once the bung was removed.
 ??  ??

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