WHAT TO LOOK FOR
ROT-SPOTTING
The first areas to check are the Macpherson strut top mountings on each front inner wing. This is a classic Ford weak spot and the car collapses around its suspension if it isn’t repaired properly. If the car has been repaired make sure that this panel has been seam welded in position – tacks won’t be strong enough. While you’ve got the bonnet up make sure that the bonnet mountings aren’t riddled with rust. Next close the bonnet, look at the vent at the base of the windscreen and remove it by taking out its retaining screws. Water will be leaking into the footwells if rust has taken hold. The shape of the panelling and poor accessibility make putting this area right a genuine pain, so do check it carefully. The outer front wings also corrode.
ENGINE HEALTH CHECK
The Mexico was fitted with an enlarged version of Ford’s trusty Kent engine in 1599cc guise. It keeps going until the piston rings or cylinder bores wear. Blue exhaust smoke when the engine is running under load means that oil is being burned. The only other likely problem is worn cam followers, so listen for tappet noise from the top end. It’s impossible to adjust the tappets properly once the followers have worn. The only way to silence them is to replace the followers. Parts cost only £35. Rebuilding the Kent and Pinto engines is a straightforward process that can be tackled at home without the need for any special tools. All the parts are available and you can also buy a rebuilt engine from a Ford specialist on an exchange basis for about £450.
HOW’S THE STEERING?
Steering racks are durable but the rubber gaiters at each end can split and allow dirt in, accelerating wear. If there is any play though it’s more likely that the rubber mountings that locate the rack have perished allowing the rack to move relative to the bodyshell. Whining during cornering can be down to worn wheel bearings. Look for leaking suspension struts under the front arches. It is possible to replace the strut insert on its own but it makes sense to replace the spring at the same time because they have a similar lifespan.
TRANSMISSION TROUBLES
The Mexico (and the Twin Cam and RS1600, for that matter) has a transmission similar to that found in the Cortina and Corsair. It has no inherent problems but listen for rumbling from the first three gears, which will be from the bearings. These are the first parts to wear but they’ll soldier on for years without causing any problems once they start making a noise. Crunches during changes may not be synchromesh-related. The more likely culprit is a stretched clutch cable, which will eventually break. Neither the clutch nor the rear axle gives any problems unless they’ve done more than 100,000 miles.
MORE GROT SPOTS
The trailing edge of the wings just ahead of the doors and the seam where each wing is joined to the front valance are common corrosion areas. The valance needs careful inspection because of the battering it gets from the elements. Make sure you look at the area where it’s spot welded to the radiator crossmember because sometimes there is no metal left at this point. The rear leaf spring hangers are prone to dissolving as are the sills, rear wheel arches and large parts of the floorpans. The corrosion of this latter area is exacerbated by water leaks from around the windscreen so lift the mats and carpets to see how intact the metal is. Check the floorpans from under the car, too.
SCRUTINISE THE INTERIOR
Re-trimming the Mexico’s seats, door trims or crash pads is no problem. Neither is putting in a new headlining. You can’t buy any of these new from Ford, but Aldridge Trimming can supply them at affordable prices. You might even tackle the work yourself, but the Mexico featured a sculpted rear seat that’s a bit trickier to revive than the standard item. Luckily the window seals are all available, which is just as well because they tend to perish over time.