WHAT TO LOOK FOR
ANY CORROSION CONCERNS?
Jensen-healeys corrode from the inside, so assume that any visible rust is worse underneath. Examine every panel, including wheelarches, door skins and bonnet/boot. Check floors and box sections, seat belt anchorages and front chassis legs, too. All of the above also applies to the GT. Most panels for both models can be supplied by specialist, such as Martin Robey. A good used bonnet can fetch £600, though.
WATCH FOR WEAR AND TEAR
Vauxhall donated most of the J-H’S steering and suspension so parts availability is good. The usual wear and tear involving tired bushes and dampers are the commonest bothers but check for corrosion around mounting points and the rear trailing arms, too. The disc/ drum brakes are as straightforward as they come so just inspect for wear and for seized rear adjusters on little-used examples. Both areas can be upgraded for better performance and a more modern feel, so a previous owner may have taken this route. An exchange rack is around £200 if the steering feels sloppy, and check for wear in the column bushes.
HOW’S THE GEARBOX?
Earlier cars got a four-speed manual ‘box shared with the Sunbeam Rapier, and while it’s generally strong high mileages can cause whining bearings and tired synchromesh. Check for the usual issues, such as excessive noise and jumping out of gear, although good parts availability makes a re-build a straightforward affair. That’s not quite the case with the Getrag five-speeder that arrived towards toward the end of 1974, so although it’s reliable be sure to check for any issues. Lastly, listen out for any noises from the Salisbury back axle – although it rarely fails completely – and for worn propshaft joints causing vibrations.
AVOID SHABBY CABINS
The more complete the better is the rule of thumb inside a Healey. Replacement seat foam and covers, carpets and switchgear are available but some smaller trim parts are getting scarce, meaning a hunt for second-hand bits. The GT’S headlining can sag, beware of a later wooden dash needing attention, and remember that professionally re-trimming a decrepit interior won’t come cheap. It’s also wise to check for water leaks and any damage to the convertible hood. That said around £350 buys a vinyl replacement, so it’s not necessarily a deal-breaker.
CHECK FOR ENGINE WOES
The Lotus-derived twin-cam engine needn’t cause trouble if maintained properly. Cam cover oil leaks can be cured with silicone gaskets and look for a weeping front camshaft seal, but otherwise it’s a case of ensuring that regular oil and cam belt changes have been carried out; at 5000-6000 miles and two years/20k miles respectively. A healthy unit should manage 1520psi oil pressure at idle and 50psi at higher speeds, and the all-alloy motor needs a tip-top cooling system, so look for signs of coolant loss or overheating. The top-end can need a re-build at around 60k miles with a more involved overhaul at 80,000-100,000 miles.
LOOK OUT FOR NEGLECT
Fuel and ignition systems are straightforward, so just look for signs of neglect. A test drive should reveal any hesitations or flat spots but it may just be carburettors in need of a re-build or setting up properly; neither job is costly. Check the bulkhead for cracking around the engine damper bracket fixings. Lastly, don’t be surprised to discover some mods, and two worth doing is swapping to a modified cartridge-style water pump that will speed-up future replacement, and fitting adjustable vernier cam pulleys and a ‘High Torque Drive’ cam belt. It’ll double renewal intervals and there’s less chance of the belt jumping teeth.
BODY CHECKS
It’s the bodywork that needs the closest inspection, and with professional restoration costs outstripping values it pays to be wary when assessing a prospective purchase. Inner and outer sills are particular rot-spots and replacing them is an involved job. Examine the wings, too – the lower sections where they meet the sills are a common trouble area. You should also check at the front around the headlamps and along the top at the rear; mud and road grot collects high up inside the wheelarch and promotes corrosion. The rear deck panel behind the soft-top also requires scrutiny, as does the inside of the boot.