WHAT TO LOOK FOR

EXAMINE THE SUSPENSION

Suspension is independent at the front via coil springs and telescopic dampers. Leaf springs and lever arm units take care of the rear. It shouldn’t give major problems. Regular greasing is key to longevity so look for signs of wear in trunnions and joints or worn springs/dampers. Rear leaf springs can crack or sag and if the front mounting pin has jammed into place you may need to remove the body to get the spring off.

CHECK FOR CORROSION

Many cars have been restored by now – perhaps more than once – so establish the quality of the work. Corrosion-wise, water drains down the bonnet and behind the wings, and blocked drainage holes can allow rot to spread back into the scuttle, bulkhead, A-pillars and sills. Excessive scuttle shake on a test drive should ring alarm bells. At the rear, examine the wings, boot lid, boot floor and spare wheel well. The floor pan needs careful scrutiny, too. Panels are available but major renovation will become expensive, and a mix-and-match approach could have been taken with panels and exterior trim, so take time to establish what’s what.

STEERING AND BRAKE ISSUES

Wear and play in the steering box is a common ailment and it can also leak oil; feel for tight spots on the test drive as it may have been over-adjusted to get rid of slack when it really needs an overhaul or replacement. The all-drum brakes are fine when adjusted properly but the later front discs were better still and an early car may have been converted. In either case, look for signs of corrosion or seized components and ensure that the car pulls up straight with no wobbles. Wheels will need a check, too; look for cracks around the mounting holes of pressed steel items and for play in the hubs or spokes of wire rims.