SUNBEAM ALPINE

(1959-67) There’s one in this week’s CCFS – here’s what to look for

WATCH FOR ENGINE NEGLECT

The most likely problem is overheating, resulting from neglect. The alloy cylinder heads warp if not torqued down properly after replacement, and if the anti-freeze level has been allowed to drop there’s probably corrosion within the system. Any Alpine engine should notch up 130,000 miles between re-builds, but they don’t tolerate being neglected for any period of time. When you test drive the car take a look at the oil pressure when it’s up to temperature.

DON’T OVERLOOK TIRED TRIM

Just about everything is available either new or reconditioned, although for much of the interior trim you’ll need to rely on remanufactured items rather than new-old stock. Rubber mats are no longer available, but most owners prefer to have carpet versions anyway. From September 1965, an alternator was fitted in place of a dynamo, and these feed a regulator and warning lamp relay mounted on the inner wing; if the alternator is overcharging, these ancillaries will soon become fried (and cost you £140 to replace) so it’s worth pre-emptively checking the alternator’s output to make sure it’s working correctly.

HOW’S THE FLOOR?

Floorpans corrode badly, so lift the mats or carpets in the front footwells to see what state the leading edges are in. The area around the accelerator is especially rot-prone, and try rocking the seats as they may be mounted on crumbling metal. The same applies to the handbrake. While you’re inside the car, inspect the mountings for the rear spring hangers; located behind the front seats on an angled panel, signs of rust may be only the tip of the iceberg. Analyse the rear spring hangers from underneath, and while you’re there also inspect the jacking points, which have a tendency to dissolve given enough time.

WATCH OUT FOR CORROSION

Check for rust rust around the headlamps and along the base of the windscreen. The hinges also wear, allowing the door to drop, and it can also corrode along its front edge and underside. If the door has been reskinned, see if the rubber seal is there and that the profile of the whole door is correct – it often isn’t. Check the back of the car, particularly the base of the wings, which should have a drain hole visible. If absent, it’s been poorly repaired. Also analyse the inner rear wheel arches; open the boot to inspect the rear corners of the boot floor and while you’re there make sure the trailing edge of the boot lid isn’t riddled with rot.