How to bag a Capri with confidence

Says Angus Tick of Dartford-based model specialist Tickover, ‘You’ll never struggle to maintain a Capri mechanically; it’s just the rust that gets them, so try and find one that is as solid as possible.

‘Floorpans are similar across all generations, but it’s very difficult to get body panels for the MKI. Later cars had better underseal although it was still a bit feeble, and sunroofs have drainage tubes that run into the sills of the car – if it rains they fill up with water. All examples aren’t very watertight, so check front footwells and the sills where they meet the floorpan, the rear spring mounts and more.’

Mechanical parts were shared with contemporary Fords including Cortinas and Sierras so are easy to get hold of, and more difficult-to-source items like older 3.0-litre gearbox bearings can be had. ‘There’s always new-old stock on ebay, so you can still get them’.

‘On the engine, gearbox and differential, check for any untoward noises. The 2.8-injection models are particularly prone to overheating so look for brown water staining in the engine bay, and make sure you get it fully up to temperature on a test drive.’

Essex, Cologne and Kent engines are strong, as are gearboxes and replacement parts are readily available from specialists. Parts for Pinto engines are scarcer – so breakersyard Sierras might be your only option.

Tickover says that while value is condition dependent for all models, the 3.0-litre cars particularly sought after. ‘My pick would have to be a 3.0-litre MKIII without a doubt – it’s such a great engine.’