1. HIT THE ROAD
As soon as you reach Wallonia, it’s time to start exploring
Tournai to Dinant Distance 203km Time 3hr 30min
Just eight kilometres from the French border and 90 minutes from the Channel Tunnel, the city of Tournai is the medieval gateway to Wallonia. Clustered around the Cathedral of Notre-dame, itself a UNSECO world heritage site that mixes Gothic and Romanesque styles, the centre delights with open squares, cobbled streets and cultural sights.
The remains of the 17th century citadel commissioned by King Louis XIV and the art gallery that houses a range of Impressionist works demand attention, but the city’s most remarkable story is almost invisible.
Besieged in 1513 and held for the next five years, Tournai is the only continental European city to ever fall under the control of Henry VIII. One of the main towers built during the occupation – the Grosse Tour – still stands in the north of the city. Spy it from Rue de Rempart, then pick up the N7 for a leisurely cruise east through Leuze-en-hainaut and the N526 heading south.
The pace soon slows, the route wandering through the centre of Beloeil, and a keen eye might spot the entrance to the local château. A multi-era building that sits within acres of pristine Baroque garden, it’s well worth a stop. Nearby Chemin du Major offers another angle on the estate, skimming along the perimeter to offer a glimpse of the grounds’ imposing water features. If it’s tranquil vistas you’re after, the N90 and N59 track over open land to the expansive Lakes of Cerfontaine but that’s no reason to miss Mons. Hungry travellers will welcome the restaurants that flank the main square here, while the Biercée Distillery in nearby Thuin will satisfy passengers looking for something stronger. Fast twists lead on into Chimay where glimpses of Armco and coloured kerbing reveal that you’re on the route of the Chimay road circuit, once host to Maserati 250Fs and straight-eight Bugattis, now a classic motorcycle racing venue. The town’s streets fuss with antique terrace housing and the local Abbey is renowned for its brewery. Amble south through the trees and turns of the Rue des Parconniers and Brûly-de-pesche eventually appears. A short walk in the forest brings you to Wolf’s Gorge – the secret base where Hitler resided in May and June 1940. His walking route and emergency bunker have both been preserved; to walk into the sparse concrete interior is unsettling but highly recommended. Dinant, the birthplace of saxophone inventer Adolf Sax, echoes to jazz. The medieval fortress towers above the town, the local scenery rewards a Meuse river cruise and the restaurants tempt with popular moules marinière.
‘The route of the Chimay road circuit, once host to Maserati 250Fs, is now a classic motorcycle race venue’
MUST-SEE Tournai Belfry, Tournai city centre
Tournai is best seen from its 15th century belfry. Built on the site of the 1218 original after it burnt down, it’s the oldest of Wallonia’s seven belfries and the only one with outdoor viewing platforms. The second – and highest – balcony is a 257-step climb and scales most of the tower’s 72m height. The cathedral view is spectacular but there’s interest inside too – visitors can examine the oldest bell – dated to 1392 – up close and summer Sundays bring the chance to watch the carillonneur in action. Address: Grand-place de Tournai, Tournai More Info: Open daily, between 9:30am and 12:30pm; 1:30pm and 5:30pm in summer, entry €2.10 Website: visittournai.be
MUST-DRIVE N598, N978 and N907 around Eau d’heure Outside Cerfontaine
The five artificial lakes of Eau d’heure offer unmissable views but are far too large to hike around. Instead, point your classic down the N907 and N978 for twists, viewpoints of Ry Jaune lake and showstopping sights as bridges carry you over the water. Finish by tracking up the N589 to enjoy the breathtaking contrast of a brimming lake on your left and fields far below to your right.