6. TURN BACK TIME
Bring the past into the present with three of Wallonia’s greatest historical sights
Mons to Dinant Distance 210km Time 3hr 10min
A metal lion, one paw raised, perched imperiously on the peak of a hill. Erected by the Dutch in 1826, it’s a sight that draws tourists down the Route de Lion and towards the Waterloo museums complex. Some 40 minutes earlier, the journey starts in the streets of Mons, the 2015 European Capital of Culture. Martin’s Dream Hotel, with its hidden, private car park, is the perfect starting point. Bold street art and the 15th century Grand-place reward local explorers before the fast blast down the E429 to the battlefield.
We all know the basics – Wellington called it ‘the nearest run thing you ever saw’, Napoleon did surrender – but the immersive Memorial Museum takes visitors so much deeper. The experience is split into three sections exploring the situations before, during and after Waterloo and peaks with a 3D movie that recreates the battle itself.
Leaving the N5 at Vieux-fenappe, hook left onto the Rue Longchamps and the drive changes dramatically. Open farmland gives way to tall, sparse woodland as the road rolls into languid sweepers that burst into a clearing just above the Abbaye de Villers.
A striking combination of Romanesque, Gothic and Neo-classical styles, the site bore witness to more than six centuries of Cistercian devotion until its ruination during the French Revolution. Today, history-lovers can easily lose an hour or two to exploring the abbey but even time-pressed travellers should take a minute to wriggle down the narrow road that abuts Villers and offers remarkable views without leaving the driver’s seat. Head back to the main road and the rewards are immediate – the N275 thunders north in a series of fast, building turns that feel like they’ll never end. The N25 dual carriageway and arrow-straight N4 are next, then spear off the main road just south of Beuzet for the N904, which ribbons straight into the heart of Namur. The hairpins of Avenue de Jean Ler bring a rear-wheel workout, pulling uphill with Alpine persistence, but it’s worth it for the moment you blast on to the Champeau plateau. The imposing 1910s stadium stares down, a reminder of Namur’s recent past as a holiday resort, and marks the final approach to the Namur citadel. The walls, bridges and museum appeal but the sprawling underground tunnel network intrigues most. The passages extend for miles and visitors can take a 90-minute guided tour that reaches more than 10m underground. Rise back to earth and engage overdrive for a lazy, riverside cruise down the N92, perhaps detouring west for a tour and tasting at Châteaux Bioul winery en route to Dinant. Now gastronomic delights beckon, so trace the Lesse tributary ten minutes south to Hôtel Castel de Pont-à-lesse, which often hosts car clubs and stuns with its on-site restaurant. Novel combinations dominate and guinea fowl with duck liver and blackberries is especially compelling. Back in town, beer fans can round out the day at Maison Leôe, a museum and tasting tour celebrating one of Belgium’s most famous monastic brews.
MUST SEE Hougoumont Farm, Waterloo
‘Keep Hougoumont.’ This was the one instruction that Wellington placed above all others. Over the course of battle, the British soldiers within endured the attacks of more than 10,000 French soldiers, forcing the farm gate closed at a pivotal moment, before suffering howitzer attack and an inferno that destroyed the château itself. Restored in 2015, the site now features a 15-minute multimedia presentation that explores the battle in dazzling detail. Be sure to explore the original chapel, too – it still holds the 17th century crucifix that looked over injured soldiers, singed feet and all. Parking is scarce but a horse-drawn cart connects the site to the Memorial Museum during the summer months. Address: 1 Chemin de Goumont, 1420 Braine-l’alleud More Info: Open daily 1000 to 1830, 1930 in July and August, included in Waterloo Memorial ticket Website: waterloo1815.be
MUST DRIVE Rue de Gembloux Immediately north west of Namur
Sweeping downhill towards the city centre, the final five kilometres of the N904 are a constant thrill. Twin sweeps lead into steep, heavily cambered scoops that can get any classic dancing, with three long horseshoes a rousing conclusion. Just as much fun heading uphill, it’s a route you’ll want to drive again and again.