Scoop is get­ting close to the fin­ish­ing line!

Progress is be­ing made de­spite Yamaha’s book of myths and le­gends that stump our Scoop!

Classic Motorcycle Mechanics - - CONTENTS - WORDS AND PHO­TOS: STEVE COOPER

I’m be­gin­ning to think my never end­ing as­so­ci­a­tion with Project Stinger may have prej­u­diced my feel­ings to­wards restora­tions. With the Suzuki, if any­thing could go wrong it gen­er­ally did but (ro­tor re­moval aside) I’m ac­tu­ally mak­ing bet­ter than ex­pected progress with the 1970 street scram­bler. The front guard men­tioned in the last re­port went to­gether okay even if one of the U-shaped mount­ing brack­ets was to­tally and ut­terly dif­fer­ent from its three sib­lings. Rather un­help­fully the parts book gives no name or ref­er­ence num­ber for the brack­ets so I’m stuck with what I have. And miss­ing part num­bers al­lied to some ques­tion­able draw­ings and mis­in­for­ma­tion is, ap­par­ently, this month’s re­oc­cur­ring theme. With the guard and wheel in place, I tack­led the rear-end and it all went to­gether swim­mingly but I kept hav­ing this nag­ging doubt that I’d missed out some­thing. Two days later it dawns on me there’s no rear sprocket on the hub which is a fairly cru­cial com­po­nent. Dig­ging through my box of used parts I found one and at­tempted to fit it but with­out suc­cess. The CS3C runs four-bolt-hole steel sprock­ets so the six-holed alu­minium one in my hand won’t fit: where this toothed in­ter­loper came from I have ab­so­lutely no idea. I men­tion my sit­u­a­tion to spares guru Andy Tem­pest at Webbs of Lin­coln while I’m or­der­ing up some float bowl gas­kets. Amaz­ingly, he has one in stock and I can have it for £15 plus postage rather than the frankly out­ra­geous £78 Yamaha now reckon a new one is

worth. It gets bolted to the cush-drive with some thread lock and new tab washers from Yam­bits. The rear guard mounts on a pair of small bolts at its lower front edge and two much larger at ap­prox­i­mately two o’clock. For rea­sons that aren’t ap­par­ent Yamaha chose to pack out the threaded bosses with a pair of loose steel col­lars that re­ally don’t have any real or ob­vi­ous pur­pose. With the spac­ers in place and the guards loosely mounted at the front I re­alised I didn’t have large bolts! When I’d stripped the bike down there were loads of ran­dom fix­ings that were ob­vi­ously nei­ther Yamaha nor met­ric so I dropped then all in the waste bin… as you do. Some­time later but the same week via ebay a bag of long 10mm, 1.25mm fine pitch, stain­less steel bolts ar­rived. Heads suit­ably filed and sanded the rear guard fi­nally got mounted. Next some of the black work: the oil tank lower mount, car­rier and air-box are all mounted at one time with one bolt of­ten car­ry­ing out two roles. Which would have been fine if Yamaha hadn’t mixed up the part num­ber (and sizes) of the two bolts that hold the air-box and front half of the bat­tery car­rier in place. Still, we live and learn etc. Feel­ing pos­i­tive, in­spired and en­thused all at once it was time to build up the footrests. The front pair run off one bar that also homes the side-stand. Just one 6mm bolt holds the whole assem­bly in place un­til the en­gine is in­stalled; its mount­ing bolts also hold the foot rest bar in place. Sorry, this ac­counts for the screw driver in our open­ing shot tem­po­rar­ily keep­ing ev­ery­thing in place. The pegs them­selves are of the fold­ing type for sup­posed off-road use… if any­one was brave or fool­hardy enough! They’re se­cured to their mounts via bolts that have a blind hole drilled into the ends. The pur­pose of the drilling was to al­low the as­sem­bler to take a punch and ham­mer then dumb the ends over to pre­vent the bolts un­screw­ing them­selves. With the ad­vent of thread lock flu­ids I’ll steer clear of the big ham­mer thanks: and so the right footrest is duly fit­ted but not the left, oh no, not the left. Al­low me a brief mo­ment here please. If a nut comes off a bolt you’d like to think that the bolt would stay in place yes? Log­i­cal and sen­si­ble etc. and with one side of the mount or pivot bolt threaded for the bolt it’s all rather re­as­sur­ing. So why please is the mount for the left footrest arse up­wards? Yes ex­actly. When Numpty-san welded the pivot point to the left side of the footrest bar he picked up a se­cond right-handed pivot mount! So I now and for­ever more will have one cor­rectly fit­ted footrest and one that’s the wrong way around! The rear pegs also re­quired assem­bly but are thank­fully not handed. For­tu­nately I’ve re­built sim­i­lar so know how it all goes to­gether; which is just as well see­ing as how the parts book gives no ref­er­ence for the slid­ing washers, cle­vis pins or split pins all needed to com­plete the assem­bly. Oh, and as I’m not a fan of slic­ing my hands on split pins I’ve used stain­less steel R-clips – so there Yamaha! Look­ing for some­thing less tax­ing tasks to waste some time on I turned to the rear light assem­bly. The all-im­por­tant grom­met that pro­tects the cable as it ex­its the front of the rear guard was long gone and the outer sleev­ing cut through. The wir­ing it­self was fine so rather than re­place the sleev­ing it sim­ply re­ceived a re­in­forc­ing

re­pair with some heat shrink sleev­ing. With ev­ery­thing cleaned and de­greased some vaguely over­sized heat shrink was mas­saged into place and only gen­tly warmed. Use­ful tip here – you don’t have to in­cin­er­ate heat shrink to get it to do a great job; it’s per­fectly fine to only par­tially re­duce its size. The back of the rear light unit is chromed but most of what’s there is never ac­tu­ally seen. So why spend money on get­ting it re-chromed when most of it won’t even be seen? Fit­ted to the freshly painted tail light bracket I reckon it looks fine and I’ve save my­self time and money: happy days. Oh and yes I did fit grom­mets through­out. And even if there’s a few is­sues this month they can’t take the gloss off what seems to be Her­culean progress com­pared to the Stinger and even when I get some neg­a­tive news it’s re­ally not as bad as it could be. The CS3C’S seat had gone off to Phil Turner at P&K Seat­ing for a full re­furb. When the bike was un­crated there were two seats. One was re­ally dog rough from cor­ro­sion to the base but the one on the bike looked okay, well upon first in­spec­tion at least. When Phil took ev­ery­thing apart the seat base had rot­ted con­sid­er­ably on its lower left side where, pre­sum­ably, wa­ter had trick­led through the foam and nib­bled away at the steel base. Ac­cord­ing to Phil it’s to­tally re­triev­able and I don’t need to worry, he can sort it…phew! So all in all a good month for the CS3C and fin­gers crossed no more hid­den sur­prises. Yeah right. Who am I try­ing you kid?

That left-hand mount!

Rear pegs and in­struc­tions: what could pos­si­bly go wrong?

The Yam’s rear sprocket.

Rear mud­guard and col­lars.

Footrest bolts...

Air-box/fil­ter and bat­tery box.

Honey I shrunk the heat shrink...

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