Jeff Ware gets on with the chassis.

Waiting for engine parts is a bind for down-under Jeff. So, what’s to do, mate?

G’day! Four weeks on and I’m still waiting on backorder parts for my RG500 engine, so although I hoped to have it running by now, I will have to wait for that sweet smoke and crackling note. In the meantime, I’ve started on the chassis.

Keeping it in mind that this is not a restoration as such but more of a procedure to bring a bike out of a 17-year hibernation and return it to the streets with original patina as much as possible (while ensuring the bike is mechanically reliable and running sweetly), I am not trying to make the bike look new so as you will see in some images, I’m leaving stains and blemishes on alloy parts and not replacing every fastener with a new shiny stainless steel one. This month I ripped into the front-end and also got the brakes off and ready to rebuild. According to the notes former owner Helmut kept on his maintenance of the RG500, the fork oil was changed on September 30, 2001, with 100,390km (62,379 miles) on the clock, using Motul 15w oil. At 103,700km (62,572m) all brake pads were changed (EBC) and brake fluid changed using Motul Dot4. The bike was ridden another 70km (43m) then stored for good. Prior to the above, the speedo cable was oiled at 91,754km (57,013m) on May 16, 2000, the brake fluid replaced at 86,000km (53,437m) and fork oil changed at 10,000km (6200m) intervals (remember here we use km so thus I’m including it). It’s handy having the notes of someone as obsessive compulsive about maintenance as Helmut was! Some may find it boring but I love flicking through it all to see what has and hasn’t been done to my bike… Anyway, although the fork oil and brake fluid had been changed for storage it was still putrid. Seventeen years of sitting

around does that. The fork oil was foul: if only these pictures were scratch and sniff ones! You know that stink of bad fork oil – it smells like rotten prawn heads! The forks needed a good strip, clean, blow-off with compressed air and new seals. Surprisingly the bushes were fine. Although the oil was changed regularly, gunk had accumulated in the bottom of the outer tube and Posi-damp unit. This had contaminated the oil over time. The regular changes had doubtless contributed to the great condition of the upper and lower bushes and the inner tube. The forks are basic conventional forks with a single damper-rod bolt at the bottom and the damper rod and rebound spring sliding through the inner tube. I undo these with a rattle gun and do them up to torque using a universal holding tool (torque is 46Nm) for the damper rod bolt. I did not disassemble the Posi-damp unit itself, just took it off and cleaned it in the washtub and blew it out with compressed air. The forks were assembled with new seals and Shell 15w oil. I then re-packed the steering-head bearings and put the front end back together. The brakes are next. The calipers need to be stripped, cleaned, painted and assembled with new seals. The pads are only 40 miles old but look to be contaminated but I will see what I can salvage. Hopefully the Venhill lines all fit nicely too. Fingers crossed the rotary valves and other parts arrive soon so I can fire the beast up. Now, where are those wheels. I need to decide on black or white before I finish this beer…

Starting work on the chassis. Time to get a brew on! Or is it beer in the mug?

21/ Before removing the calipers and brake lines I always use my trusty vacuum bleeder to completely drain the brake system. It saves the mess of getting fluid everywhere, which always happens! 2/ The rear brakes also need rebuilding as the caliper is seized so I drained that as well.

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55/ In the meantime I have rebuilt the forks. They are standard in every way, even original fork springs. 6/ While the forks were out I serviced the steering head. Everything is neat about the RG500, including the design of this top preload nut and the way the top triple-tree pinches it. 7/ The bearings and races were okay but very dry so needed a good clean and repack.

33/ Brake lines are getting replaced as well. I’m fitting stainless braided Venhill lines. They won’t look original of course but I always want good brakes and good tyres… 4/ The calipers ready for rebuilding, which we will run through next issue once my seal kits arrive.

98/ The best way to repack these is to place a tablespoon of high-pressure waterproof grease in your palm and scrape the bearing over it, working your way around the entire cage until the grease appears at the other end. 9/ If still pressed onto the steering stem, the bottom bearing is trickier to lubricate. You need to push the grease through from the top and sides but it is worth being patient to make sure plenty of grease gets in there as the bottom bearing is more exposed to the elements.

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