Shake­down show­down!

Plain sail­ing rarely ap­plies to me­chan­i­cal projects and the big Su­zook is de­ter­mined to chuck an­other span­ner in the works. Good job Wildy' s got plenty more span­ners where they came fromº

Classic Motorcycle Mechanics - - WORKSHOP -

The an­tic­i­pa­tion is pal­pa­ble as Pro­ject GSX-R10/11 gets rolled out of the garage look­ing re­splen­dent in its new clothes. The red, black, white and sil­ver paint­work has cer­tainly lifted the build above av­er­age and the whole re­build has taken less than the 10 weeks d set my­self to nish it. Be­ing a pro­ject, it' s not 100% com­plete the small LED in­di­ca­tors are wait­ing for the ar­rival of an ap­pro­pri­ate ad­justable asher unit, the speedo isn' t con­nected to any­thing (I lost the wheel-driven ca­ble drive with the switch to the later wheels) and ve yet to check wheel and chain align­ment prop­erly. But m itching for the rst ride, so what do you do? thumb the starter and the bike takes just that sec­ond longer to re and the idle hunts man­i­cally like a South African on a free sa­fari. t' ll clear with a run,º con­vince my­self. But these things rarely do. Hel­met on, ease out of the drive and hope for the best. mme­di­ately it feels like it did when bought the orig­i­nal GSX-R1100: hes­i­tant, re­luc­tant, prob­lem­at­i­cal. Damn. ve rid­den enough bikes to know this isn' t gonna come good' , with a ride, so limp back to the garage and have a mo­ment. irst guess is that it feels like an elec­tri­cal prob­lem. stick a tem­per­a­ture gun on each of the header pipes and it' s clear the en­gine is run­ning cooler on cylin­ders three and four. Even though know the two coils feed cylin­ders one and four, and two and three re­spec­tively, take the low-ten­sion read­ings (12V to the coils) and then re­sis­tance read­ings at the spark plug ends. This all checks out (well, they do af­ter chuck my ve-year-old ebay spe­cial mul­ti­me­ter in the bin and pony-up for a de­cent one). As ve new plugs in the bike, ig­nore thoughts of ECU problems and then turn my at­ten­tion to the carbs. There were no ob­vi­ous signs of wear on the nee­dles when had them stripped down so recheck all of the base set­tings: oat heights, idle mix­ture screw po­si­tion, along with whip­ping the tops off to check di­aphragm con­di­tion and that the ddly lit­tle O-rings are still in place. As part of the tear­down ten weeks ago, d set the tap­pets and com­pres­sion-tested the en­gine, so when the bike' s back to­gether and the prob­lem per­sists, m look­ing to make the call on the carbs be­ing su­fae ciently well worn to need re­plac­ing. So, new carbs it is then. The orig­i­nal plan was to t a set of Mikuni RS3 6 at-slides to the bike. Ob­vi­ously to make it go bet­ter, but there' s also mu­cho plea­sure to be had in a bike that rat­tles like a pissed-off snake at idle. A uick trip to the in­ter­net shows me that a bank of carbs (and the ex­tras ll need to t em) comes in around 1500 (£ 900) and it' ll take about two weeks to get em in my paws. Done deal, you' d think? How­ever: ve a known uan­tity in my 1000 (£ 600) Bandit that' s sit­ting in the back of the garage. So let' s weigh this up. New carbs with ex­tra chat­ter-chat­ter from the slides and a two-week de­lay, or get the span­ners out. Be­ing some­one who tries (and some­times suc­ceeds) not to make the same mis­take twice, run the Bandit up and take her for a road-date. want to make sure of this en­gine' s per­for­mance and how it car­bu­rates from dif­fer­ent rpms. Strong from low to high rpm, crisp re­sponse and a uiet gear­box sees me

drain­ing oil a minute af­ter ve nished the ride. The plan is to swap the whole of the elec­tri­cal sys­tem so have a decade-newer wiring loom on the Gixer and a com­plete swap should mean no more problems. Shouldn' t it? Get­ting the 1157 cc lump out of the Bandit is pretty straight­for­ward, but putting it into the now 1052cc-less Gixer frame is more of a chore. Phys­i­cally the same size (save for the re­mov­able top breather sec­tion), the job is much eas­ier when you can jig­gle the bare frame over the en­gine. Now that my frame is a rolling chas­sis, need the as­sis­tance of my car en­gine hoist. wince ev­ery time the frame' s paint gets scratched add the touch-up to the jobs list! t was ob­vi­ous from the re­moval of the old' en­gine that the oil cooler line pick-ups are dif­fer­ent and opt to go with the Bandit 12' s smaller cooler and lines but be­neae t by re­gain­ing full steer­ing lock in the process. At 00ml, the Bandit en­gine takes 100ml less oil, so add an oil temp gauge into the dip­stick hole; mainly as a pre­cau­tion, but also it looked waaay cool back in the day. And you should never for­get where you' re from, as they say, un­less you were born in Lu­ton, like was. With iden­ti­cal mount­ing points, the en­gine gets bolted in and it' s now time to as­sem­ble the elec­tri­cal sys­tem around it. With dif­fer­ent lo­ca­tions for items on the Bandit, the trans­planted loom now means that can get all the main elec­tri­cal com­po­nents (bat­tery, CDI , starter re­lay, fuse­board, asher can) un­der the rider' s seat much neater. With the heart and soul of the Bandit now adorn­ing the Gixer af­ter a two-day turn around, m conae dent

of a suc­cess­ful trans­plant. Well, that' s that as­sump­tion out the win­dow as soon asº The key goes in, the kill-switch is off, butº si­lence. No click of a so­le­noid, no fuel be­ing rushed to the car­bu­re­tors, no ig­nit­ers ig­nit­ing. No suck, no sq ueeze, no bang and deae nitely no blow: just pro­fan­i­ties from yours truly and a de­sire to burn the evil witch. diot lights light, but that' s as far as the re­works go. With a bit of search­ing, it' s clear that the Bandit has a crude (but hey, ef­fec­tive) anti-theft sys­tem built in to the ig­ni­tion. The CDI needs to see a re­sis­tance in one of the wires to re. This is to stop the bike be­ing hotwired and my new ig­ni­tion switch (for a Gixer 11) doesn' t have that func­tion. solder in a re­sis­tor that gets the bike run­ning. Praise be to the almighty Lord of Com­bus­tion! With a know­ingly racy bur­ble emerg­ing from the chrome tip of the oshi race can, m ready for irst Ride' : The Seq uel. let the en­gine tem­per­a­ture climb as check for leaks: all good. give it a rev and the bike cuts out like an in­vis­i­ble nger has icked the kill switch sharp and nal. start her again and the same thing hap­pens. Bug­ger, this thing' s cursed. t feels elec­tri­cal but, as ve swapped the whole sys­tem (from bat­tery ter­mi­nals to han­dle­bar switchgear, m not fall­ing for that trick again. nstead my fo­cus is on the K& N pod lters that adorn the carbs. With tape, start to block off some of the sur­face area of the lters and the en­gine cut­ting out gets less de­ci­sive. When had the carbs apart to clean them, some no-doubt-race-me­chanic-le­gend had de­cided to le the main jet ends so that there are no num­bers on them hence haven' t a clue what size they are. All have to go on is that the Bandit was sport­ing a slip-on, air-box mod (en­larged in­take hole) and a K& N panel lter. So de­cide to re­verse engi­neer the so­lu­tion by mak­ing foam strips that cover the lters and then add dis­pos­able pa­per tow­els un­til the en­gine feels right. up, it might seem weird pulling over and shov­ing pa­per tow­els on your K& Ns, but got it so that the bike pulled hard from idle to high pretty uick. f this was a track­day bike d be crazy to do it this way, but the Bandit en­gine now has more than enough torq ue to pro­pel me around the coun­try­side at a more than in­ter­est­ing rate of knots! Back home, (lit­er­ally) line-up a cou­ple of lengths of alu­minium and clamp them to the rear wheel. Mea­sur­ing their gap at the front and rear of the front wheel rim, the re­sult shows that the front is 40mm to the left, which means there' s a 20mm-sized prob­lem. By ad­just­ing the back wheel pre­cisely, get the gap down by 16mm, then hit a home run with a 2mm spacer be­tween the left-hand side swingarm and sprocket car­rier spacer. Re­sult. As for the chain run, swap the slightly dished rear sprocket around and then add a 2mm spacer be­hind the gear­box sprocket. So that' s all my align­ments aligned, then. While have the front sprocket cover off, take the op­por­tu­nity to swap over the GSX-R cover to the Bandit one. d used the Gixer one as it has a pivot for the ar­tic­u­lated gear link­age, whereas the Bandit' s gear lever is part of the footrest. Out with the drill, the pivot gets added to the cover. So that' s that, then. With the last minute en­gine swap it' s taken just a tad over 10 weeks to build my­self a keeper. An old school icon that' s been dragged up-to-date with a bit of nip n' tuck, a torq uey mill and killer brakes. Com­ing soon: the GSX-R10/11/12 road test, and there' s a nal st­ing in the tail!

She looks the part...

ryin to find out wh at’ s wrong ... wh won’ t it start?

Ch ec king ev­eryth ing in th e arbs.

Bat­tery an now o un­der th e seat.

nd now wired in.

Re­sis­tanc e is fu­tile ...

Carb sort­ing .

Sod it otor swap!

Key in, ready to o...

Cool levers .

Which would you have?

Bandit 1200 mo­tor in situ: Wildy wants colours to match!

Bandit clocks over GSX-R clocks.

Start this time you swine!

Get­ting the thing to run right.

Is Wildy clock­ing her?

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