Classic Motorcycle Mechanics - - TESTED -

A torque wrench should be in ev­ery se­ri­ous me­chanic’s tool box be­cause you can do as much dam­age by over-tight­en­ing a nut as un­der-tight­en­ing it. By us­ing a torque wrench, you’ll al­ways tighten to the op­ti­mum tight­ness for that par­tic­u­lar size or strength of bolt/stud. This is Sealey’s AK 62 3 in square drive mi­crom­e­ter torque wrench. It came in a moulded plas­tic case that pro­tected the tool from ac­ci­den­tal knocks that may eas­ily up­set the cal­i­bra­tion. The in­struc­tion leaflet gave op­er­at­ing and safety in­struc­tions, to­gether with a copy of the cal­i­bra­tion cer­tifi­cate. The wrench looks well made, it’s fin­ished in sil­ver/black and cov­ers a set­ting range of 0-8 0lb-ft (2 .1-108 .5nm) which al­though it doesn’t cover many lower set­tings, will (in con­junc­tion with Sealey’s STW1012 model) tighten the vast ma­jor­ity of nuts. To set the wrench, sim­ply turn the ad­just­ing grip ac­cord­ingly. If you re­quire 34lb-ft, turn the ad­juster un­til its level with the 30 mark, and con­tinue to turn un­til the 4’ is aligned with the cen­tre line. The ra­chet head is re­versible, but it must be noted that this torque wrench will not tighten left-hand threads to a set­ting so some nuts can­not be torqued-up cor­rectly. I tested it against my Bri­tool and roto torque wrenches at var­i­ous set­tings dur­ing an en­gine re-build and it com­pared very well. One crit­i­cism could be that it’s not re­ally long enough for the max­i­mum set­ting (or per­haps I’m not as strong any more) It’s worth point­ing out, as with all torque wrenches, don’t for­get to slacken the ad­juster off af­ter use, or the spring will weaken. So is it worth the buy­ing? I’d say yes but bear in mind you’ll need a sec­ond torque wrench for be­low 0lb-ft set­tings. David Brown

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