Buying and running an RD200
The round-tanked RD200 ran from 1973-1975 beginning with the RD200 (397 model code), then the 200A as featured here, followed by the 200B. To add to the confusion there’s also an RD200DX (535) and an RD200B-DX (model code 556) both with a disc front brake. Depending upon who you listen to the first coffin model is either a C or D model; different markets received different specifications. All of the round-tanked 200s are essentially the same beast with just very minor changes, most of which are aesthetic.
As always buying one in boxes is, potentially, a recipe for disaster and especially so if the seller has creatively mixed in some coffin-tanked parts from either the later 1E8 or 2R7 models. Some parts fit, some don’t. Even a scabby complete round tanker is better than one in crates! Restoration projects start from as low as £200 with oily raggers coming in at £1000£1500. Not so long ago a tidy example might only have made £500 more but not now (given the level of difficulty sourcing certain parts). £3500 isn’t out of the way in the current climate and some have sold north of £5k!
Mudguards are prone to rotting, costly to repair and expensive to buy as NOS; ditto seat bases and the almost-impossible-to-find stainless steel seat trim. Tank badges are pricey and, unknown to many unsuspecting customers, handed. The 337 series emblems have an L or R on their reverse sides. Unlike the preceding CS5, all the RD200S run separate silencers and exhaust pipess but it’s still easy enough to overstrain them during a build. The down-pipe should be fitted to the barrel first and the nuts nipped up finger tight. The silencer goes on next with the two studs lined up with their mounts. Once this is done all the fixings can be tightened before tweaking the castellated collar at the pipe/silencer join which is the slack in the system.
Parts for the Teikei carbs are difficult to source and OEM parts disappeared decades ago. Aftermarket service kits may not have all the correct components depending on which market the bike was built for so it’s worth checking existing parts against the new ones. A lot of carb kits advertised for RD200S do not fit. The giveaway is normally the size of the carb quoted and/or the float bowl gasket which is often wrong. Poor running on mid-throttle is often due to the brass emulsion tubes which are prone to the small cross-drilled holes being blocked. All RD200S have a reputation for poor charging/ starting. Checking that the small black wire at the generator is correctly earthed helps. There are two pairs of carbon brushes contacting the armature and they all need to be within specification for length for decent contact. Behind the right-hand side-panel is a gold-coloured box that contains both the regulator and starter relay. Storage can lead to oxidised/corroded points. The regulator is adjustable and the charge light in the speedo should just be fluttering at around 1200rpm. It’s worth tracking down a factory manual or copies of for this. If the armature needs to be removed it must use only the factory-type tool or slide hammer. When setting timing the advance/retard unit must be spragged fully open or you’ll get the wrong firing point. Oh, and handling can be iffy thanks to bolts/loose engine mounts allowing the frame to flex.