Closer (UK)

‘Cooking has become a cool thing to do’

Gregg Wallace and John Torode, on the return of the fan-favourite cooking show which is back on our screens…

- By Caroline Blight

There’s a whole new set of challenges… JOHN TORODE, 56: We’ve got the new audition round, and Mr Wallace loved it – because you get to sit down and have some food. And we see the end product rather than worrying about what the contestant­s are actually up to. GREGG WALLACE, 57: It was brilliant, though I wasn’t sure at first – I don’t like change, but we sat on a big bench and just tasted dish after dish without seeing the chefs or knowing who they were.

What’s the standard like?

JOHN: It’s extremely high; pretty stunning. In 2005, one of the finalists made soda bread and pâté – so that gives you an idea of where we’re at these days. GREGG: I think the standard has improved beyond belief. I often look at the contestant­s and think, “You must be profession­al.” It’s extraordin­ary how they’ve taught themselves to that level.

JOHN: And cooking is now a cool thing to do, whereas it wasn’t when I started my apprentice­ship at the age of 17 in Australia…

Do you think social media has had a big influence on cooking? GREGG: It’s massive! I reckon three quarters of the people we talk to say they get their ideas online. It’s something you can look at when you should be working, and it’s more accessible than a cookery book.

What’s your nemesis this year? JOHN: Potatoes! Raw chips and lumpy, raw mashed potato – just cook the blo*dy thing!

GREGG: A lot of people underestim­ate the time something is going to take to cook. You’ve got to get it right, because it can’t be rescued if it comes out of the oven, and it’s not cooked…

And your shining light?

JOHN: We’re seeing the use of herbs again, which makes a massive difference to things and shows a little bit more care. GREGG: As an old greengroce­r, I’m overjoyed by the rise of the vegetable in cookery – not just as an accompanim­ent but as the lead singer.

You get to go to Ireland?

JOHN: It was brilliant to travel again, though as a crew we were disappoint­ed that curfews were still in place so when we finished filming there was nowhere to go as we weren’t allowed out. GREGG: It was a double-edged sword, really. And shall I tell you how we have changed over the last 20 years? Me and his nibs turn up at a hotel. I say, “Do you want a drink, John?” He says, “Not really, do you?” We had half a decaf coffee then I went for a swim and John did a spinning class.

Lols! And how have your judging styles changed?

GREGG: I’ve become a lot cleverer and John’s letting it slip a bit. I’ve got my finger on the pulse, whereas John’s getting a bit old and doddery. And what’s happening with the food is that I’m leaning more towards the classics and John likes it more daring – he’s got his baseball cap on the wrong way round, and I’m wearing cardigans…

JOHN: I don’t think we’ve changed very much. I think we do what we do in the way that we’ve always done, and we’re there to judge the food – nothing else. GREGG: We’re a lot older, calmer, and happier than we ever were – and this is the most chilled-out I’ve ever seen John.

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Tuck in, lads!

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