SEAFOOD CHAMPIONS

A new cookbook, For the Love of the Sea, celebrates the edible bounty of our island waters and the community involved with its sustainable harvest, from catching it, to preparing and sharing it

A new book celebrates those who catch, sell and serve British seafood – we have a few of their recipes for you

For author Jenny Jefferies, it was a privilege to compile For the Love of the Sea, a cookbook with hope and enlightenment on the agenda. Not only are its pages filled with mouthwateringly good seafood recipes, they also showcase more than 40 of the dedicated people involved in fishing and its associated fields of work. ‘Fishermen are the gatekeepers of the sea,’ says Jenny, ‘and I hope this book helps thank and praise everyone who loves British seafood and works with the sea in whatever form, from fishing and farming to selling, cooking, preparing, managing, researching and recreationally.’

Marcus Coleman, CEO of Seafish, the public body which supports the British fishing industry, wrote the foreword and is passionate about reconnecting us with our seafood heritage. ‘Nearly half a million tonnes of seafood is landed at ports all around the UK every year, from Newlyn in Cornwall to Lerwick in the Shetland Islands. At early morning fish markets, merchants clamour to do the best deal. They then distribute the catch to 350 seafood processing businesses around the UK, an industry that employs over 20,000 people – 90% of them women – often in rural coastal communities. From here, supermarkets, restaurants and fish and chip shops receive their supplies and proudly assemble a wonderful array of options for customers to enjoy.’

Here we share four fascinating stories from the book. More than ever, British seafood deserves our culinary attention and a renewed appreciation for our deliciously fishy island heritage.

HARNESSING COMMUNITY SPIRIT

Câr-Y-Môr, St Davids

‘Câr-Y-Môr – “for the love of the sea” in English – started through a combined passion for the coast and a desire to have a positive impact on people’s health and wellbeing. It has been a long road to get where we are today!’ writes Megan Haines, co-founder of Câr-Y-Môr in St Davids, Pembrokeshire. ‘As a Community Benefit Society, our main aim is to benefit local people and businesses. Here in St Davids, local fishermen, boat builders and other caring folk have all joined the society to start creating an innovative seafood business providing fulfilling jobs. Today the society has 37 members and counting: all local members volunteering to help the community business grow, with others supporting from afar.

‘2020 was a big year as we managed to get Wales’ first 3D ocean farms into the water at Ramsey Sound. Between the two ocean farms we have three different species of seaweed growing and 90,000 juvenile native oysters. Surveying the farms and seeing the magic that happens has brought us and our partners great joy, especially in these turbulent times. But as well as boosting our mood, the farms will be used by our research partners for a number of interesting studies: evaluating the positive effect they have on the marine environment, exploring carbon capture potential and the development of a farm monitoring system.

‘Back on land we have allied with Jono and Sandy at Solva Seafoods, which allows us to market and distribute locally caught seafood and shellfish to local and national customers, supplying them with lobster and crab caught by Jono himself. As the business develops, we hope to increase this offer with more locally caught and ocean farmed produce.

‘In summer 2019, we began our outdoor education adventure, so you’d find us most weekends on different beaches across southern Pembrokeshire. Our Seaweed Potion Kitchen proved popular with both children and adults (as it meant parents could have five minutes’ peace). We also delved into education sessions in schools as well as running Potion Kitchen birthday parties on the beach, all of which were a fantastic success. As we move forward, we hope to carry on inspiring the next generation of ocean farmers, to continue bringing something special to the local community and make a positive difference to people’s wellbeing here.’