COASTAL DISCOVERY
This month William Thomson investigates the magical world of the salt marsh, exemplified by North Norfolk’s atmospheric fringe of creeks, reed beds and dunes leading onto vast open beaches
William Thomson explores the magical world of the salt marsh as he heads to North Norfolk
If there is a single environment that ebbs and flows with the tide, it must surely be the salt marsh. A series of creeks criss-crossing this spectacular landscape are reminiscent of arteries, pumping life-giving fluid to the living organism as the tide breathes in and out every six hours. Although the creeks themselves are often spread thinly across the vast expanse, like fingers of a hand stretched out, they usually converge at a single choke point – the wrist – through which the saltwater ferociously pours in and out with the tide’s semi-diurnal cycle. It is here where the mellow marsh suddenly intensifies with strong streams rushing through; as the tide rises at sea, water is forced through the constriction and flows into the veins of the marsh. And then, as the tide starts to fall at sea, currents pour back out, emptying the creeks so that boats lie haphazardly in the mud. As the tide begins to rise again, the vessels are effortlessly picked up and face the direction the water is coming from. The reason they do this is because most boats are tied to a buoy by a single rope coming from the bow (front), so the current pushes them away from the buoy and runs evenly down each side.
This little piece of knowledge provides an invaluable clue to quickly spot what the tide is doing. If the boats are facing out to sea on a windless day, the tide must be rising. But if they are facing inland, the tide must be falling, because water is draining from the creeks. A fantastic place to observe this is the marshes of North Norfolk, whose picturesque villages have wonderful names perfectly suited to the atmosphere of the place; Blakeney, Holkham, Cley-next-the-Sea, Burnham-Overy-Staithe. Stretching along the coast from The Wash in the west to Cromer in the east, these places are essentially all part of one large marsh with shared characteristics – sheltered water, creeks making a lattice across the low-lying landscape and raised grassy banks weaving between them, leading to huge dunes protecting the serene marsh from the ravages of the sea. On the wild side of the dunes is an expansive sandy beach, bisected by deepwater channels through which the tide is allowed in twice a day.
This dramatic environment with its varying characters – ranging from the tranquil village to tranquil marsh and wild sandy beach – make a wonderful space to go walking. It could be argued that these marshes provide some of the best walks in the whole of the British Isles. My favourite starts in the postcard-perfect Burnham-Overy-Staithe, where a quiet path built upon a raised walkway takes you deep into the marsh. The route weaves with the creeks, passing flocks of birds and the
‘The route weaves with the creeks, passing flocks of birds and the skeletons of wooden ships slowly merging into the landscape’
skeletons of wooden ships slowly merging into the landscape. Being a single path it is impossible to get lost and without requiring any brainpower for navigation you can totally unwind. But just as you get into a hypnotic state, a huge sand dune suddenly appears out of nowhere, a stark juxtaposition to the muddy creeks. An incision through the dune leads you on, marram grass rustling in the wind and hiding the view through. Pushing through this blind, the scene is remarkable; a vast expanse of sand as far as you can see in either direction. Turning left and following the edge of dunes, you’ll get to the entrance to the marsh where the tide floods in and out; continuing around, you will return to the path and back to civilisation, infinitely more relaxed than when you left.