COASTAL CUISINE
Rick Stein, Sandbanks, Dorset
Rick Stein,
Sandbanks, Dorset
WHET MY APPETITE. This is exactly the kind of location where fish should be eaten. With stunning views over Poole Harbour, you can listen to the waves lapping on the shore while eating the finest seafood available. You have a problem though, as the menu here is quite extensive and it’s really hard to choose. Ranging from traditional fish and chips to Szechuan squid, sashimi of tuna or Indonesian seafood curry, there’s something to suit all seafood lovers. WHAT’S ON THE MENU? A sublime array of everything the sea offers. Whet your appetite with a small appetiser of a Cornish oyster on ice, or a little salt cod brandade with black olive tapenade. For starters we shared the Sashimi of tuna, sea bass, salmon and scallop, served with wasabi, mooli, pickled ginger and soy dipping sauce. Fresh and light, there was enough for two people. For mains, I chose the updated version of Lobster Thermidor, which is a lighter dish with less cheese, but still delicious and wonderful to know that they come from our shores. My companion ordered the Dover Sole a la Meunière, which was beautiful cooked and brought to the table whole, then skilfully filleted, before being served with beurre noisette and some broccoli with salsa verde. The fish, we were advised, retains more flavour when cooked on the bone, rather than being filleted prior to cooking. It was just as fish should be – moist, tender, fresh and melt-in-the-mouth delicious.
HOW’S THE MOOD? Slick and stylish, with soft, pale blue, leather seating and crisp, white tablecloths.
CAN I SEE THE SEA? There are panoramic views of Poole Harbour – when you book, ask to sit upstairs where you can see the water. If you walk to the other side of the peninsula, you will find sandy beaches where you can take a dip if the sun is shining.
WHAT’S THE DAMAGE? Can be pricey, depending on what you order. A starter of mackerel with fennel seeds is a very reasonable £7.95, but if you’d prefer the Cornish Crab Wakame you’ll pay £16.95. Fish mains start at £17.95 for fish and chips, rising to £44.95 for a half lobster. Vegetarians can eat for less, with a Sri Lankan cashew nut curry main course for just £15.95.
OPENING TIMES. Open every day from 12 noon to 10pm, with coffee being served from 10am. You can book online at rickstein.com or call 01202 076443.