MINIATURE FIGURES
We take a look at how to restore and convert model figures.
One problem you will inevitably experience as a collector of miniature figures is that, at some point, a particular uniform or type of soldier you need will not be available commercially. All is not lost. You can create it yourself, either from scratch or by converting another figure. Another common problem is that of damaged or incomplete figures. The approach to both is very similar.
If you are already a modeller, assembling and painting commercial figures, then taking the next step to adapt and alter will come naturally. If you are not, it is still not a difficult thing to start, and will add enormously to the pleasure you get from your hobby.
The simplest first step is to make your figures unique in some way. The best way to do this is by adding equipment without actually altering the identity of the figure. For example, the commercial figures may be in ‘light equipment’, and you want them in ‘heavy marching order’. The equipment and weapons can be from the bits box (ie pieces salvaged from other models – something all modellers and collectors should do) or purchased from makers who sell them separately. The replacement of a poorly cast or under-scale weapon such as the rifle or musket can often transform a figure without any other work being necessary, apart from careful painting, of course.
MODELLING PUTTY
Alternatively, the new items can be made from scratch. The material usually referred to as ‘modelling putty’ is a two-part epoxy putty, ie there is a stick each of filler and hardener which, when mixed together, set hard. Milliput is a brand name for a range of different types. ‘Greenstuff’, so called from the blue and yellow sticks which mix to make green, has become a generic for the other kinds. Actually there are various different colour browns and greys, each different, some set hard, some remain more flexible. All can be cut, filled and drilled when hard.
Which is best? They all work, and they all have their purposes. Personally I like to use Milliput for large areas, bulking out so to speak, and Greenstuff for detailed work (often on top of the Milliput). But the only way to find out which is best for you is to give them a go – you can even mix them all if you want. Modelling putty is obtainable from specialist suppliers, and is widely available online.
One tip – all are easier to work with if hand cream is used instead of water to clean tools and to smooth! I know it sounds odd, but the cream (I use Atrixo) stops the putty sticking to the modelling tool and works better on the surface – honest!
Putty modelling tools do not have to be specialist pieces. A craft knife and wooden toothpicks (one end cut to a chisel shape, both ends hardened with Superglue) will do the job. A friendly dentist may even be persuaded to part with an old dental tool. There are also specialist shaping tools, of course, that offer a variety of shapes.
A BASIC TOOL KIT
For other modelling tasks, a basic tool kit would be a pair of snips or side-cutters, snipe-nosed pliers, craft knife, needle file or two, pin vice and fine drill bits and finetooth saw.
There are many types of craft knife and blades, Swan Morton and Xacto being the most widely available. A new blade should always be used when trimming polythene plastics. Use old blades on tougher jobs like cleaning up metal figures. A heavy DIY knife is safer for cutting torsos in half, sidecutters are especially useful where each figure may have a sprue and linking pieces to help the metal run right into every
part, but they can also speed up removal of unwanted equipment.
Pliers need to be the smallest variety, either snipe or roundnosed. Snipe-nosed hold small pieces to be bent, cut or pushed into plastic figures. Round-nosed are excellent for bending curves or rings in wire. A pair of tweezers are useful to position small bits when gluing or painting.
A larger and coarser file is handy for cleaning up metal bases which, if cast with the figure, often have uneven lower surfaces. Have a few sheets of fine emery and sandpaper handy and there are especially fine papers which can be used wet or dry, to smooth and polish metal and which also work on some plastics.
A pin vice can hold a pin or sharp spike to punch holes, wire to be worked on (cut, sharpened) and, most useful of all, small drills for making holes in plastic or metal. If you do much more than the very basic of conversions, you will want an electric drill. A saw edged blade which can be fitted into the craft knife will suffice, though for heavier jobs a proper razor saw will be needed. Hard steel jewellers and engravers’ tools or scribers can be used in place of blunt blades to add or deepen join and crease details.
GET WIRED
Piano and florists’ wire is hard, so good where bending isn’t wanted. Brass wire is malleable and can be hammered flat to make spears and swords. Pins are also very useful, eg for fixing heads, arms, weapons onto figures.
A small soldering iron can be used to assemble kits. On plastic it can add or remove details, and help change positions and re-affix arms or legs. The pyrogravure (used for wood burning crafts) is used on plastic in a similar way to the soldering iron, but is especially good at texturing things like hair or plumes.
The arrival of Superglue and modelling putty has made using a hot soldering iron to assemble and repair unnecessary. There are a wide range of glues in the Superglue category, thick and thin, with varying setting times. A specialist in the field is Deluxe Materials; whilst a look at the website or catalogue will at first bewilder the newcomer, everything you need in the way of glues is there.
REFERENCE MATERIAL
There isn’t a lot in the way of books in print on the subject. Roy Dilley’s 1974 Beginner’s Guide to Military Modelling, Pelham Books, is a good place to start. Making Model Soldiers by Michael Blake and published by Stanley Paul, is another. There is the Encyclopaedia of Military Modelling by Vic Smeed and Alec Gee, Stackpole Books 1998, but that covers a much wider range of topics like tanks and AFVs. Bill Horan’s Military Modelling Masterclass, Windrow & Greene, 1994, has chapters devoted to single and mounted figures with step-by-step photo-stories of the planning and creating. Modelling and Painting Figures by Jerry Scutts, Osprey Publishing, 2000, covers the basics, but doesn’t deal with toy soldiers.
Miniature Wargames magazine (www.tabletopgaming.co.uk) is a great source of information, with advice, tips and resources available to all. Here you will be amongst like-minded collectors and modellers and will find answers to all your questions.
FINALLY...
Don’t worry about making mistakes. You will, like everyone, have your share of failures. Even these will not be entirely wasted because some parts of them will be salvageable and can go into the bits box, and the experience gained will have been worth it. Finding out what doesn’t work for you is just as useful as finding out what does.
The point is that getting more involved with your figures will enhance your enjoyment of them – and just think of the feeling of pride when you hold up your latest addition and you are able to say: ‘I didn’t buy this one, I made it myself!’