THE NATURAL BEAUTY SECTOR IS NOW A BILLION POUND BUSINESS… but is it feeding us a load of organic bull?
SULPHATES
It’s all about flaunting a clean, green beauty regime right now. So here’s a guide to sidestepping the holier-than-thou hogwash
“Soon, people won't believe in a product unless it's natural”
Welcome to Whole Foods – sorry – the Cosmopolitan
beauty desk, a place where cold-pressed face oils and organic body butters outnumber sleek cosmeceutical serums 2:1. Seriously, it seems like every other cosmetic landing in our in-crates these days boasts ‘chemical-free’ and ‘healthy’ credentials. And we’re not just talking boutique brands any more – behemoths like Garnier and Herbal Essences are all clambering on the green bandwagon.
How did this happen? It’s been a stealth movement, one helped by the thriving wellness industry. After all, we now live in a world where a juice that looks like the inside of a food waste caddy and costs £6 isn’t any more remarkable than spending as much on a personal trainer as we once would have on a handbag. But it’s more than that. It’s about concern for the world around us (who wasn’t shocked to find that the microbeads found in our daily exfoliators were ending up in the sea, choking Nemo and his piscine brethren?), as well as what its pollutants and environmental ills are doing to our health.
But can products that tout themselves as natural ever be as effective as those that have been clinically created in the laboratory for specific beauty issues? Well, 15 years of surging investment in clinical research of natural actives, biotechnology and green chemistry means naturals are now where it’s at when it comes to innovation and results.
“In another 10 years, people will not believe a product can work
unless it’s natural,” predicts Sarah Brown, founder of leading natural skincare brand Pai Skincare.
So going green is just grand, right? Because clearly, *adopts whiney Trump voice*, natural ingredients are gooood and chemicals are very, very bad. Right? Well, it’s blanket assumptions like that that make numpties of us all. The reality, as always, is more complex. Because if there’s one thing we all know about the beauty industry, it’s that there’s always huge scope for pseudo-science, scaremongering and the potential for mass ripping-off. So if you’re going to spend money on a ‘better,’ ‘kinder,’ ‘more natural’ product, you need to understand what’s actually in it.
Natural nonsense
We love natural products, we really do. But that doesn’t mean you should fall for every claim the natural lobby throws at you. Such as this load of tosh…
COSMETIC CHEMICALS ARE TOXIC AND DANGEROUS
The CTPA (the UK cosmetic trade association) points out that any cosmetic ingredient must be safe under EU law; ‘chemical’ or ‘manmade’ has no bearing on it. REN co-founder Rob Calcraft puts it best: “We leave out ingredients because we know of better, gentler, more effective alternatives, not because we think some will kill you or might turn a male fish into Lily Savage. If some agents were any more sinister than potential allergens, rest assured that the incredibly strict European safety regulations would outlaw them.” So no need to gut your entire bathroom shelf.
NATURAL PRODUCTS ARE SAFE AND GENTLE
Naturals have caused me just as many hives and rashes as synthetics throughout my career, so I fully agree with skin specialist Marko Zelens, who says people should pick up a product based on efficacy and lack of allergens and irritants (which can be found in either). There’s even emerging proof that nature’s chemicals cause more DNA damage than man-made ones: “From neurotoxins like fungi and moulds, and allergens like pollen and psoralens in celery and citrus fruits, nature’s larder can be terrifying,” says Clinique’s Dr Tom Mammone.
60% OF WHAT YOU PUT ON YOUR SKIN ENDS UP IN THE BLOODSTREAM
This ever-popular claim is “complete nonsense”, says Karine Théberge, CEO of biotech company Biomod.“If products could so easily penetrate the dermis, we would’ve solved cellulite by now. Less than 1% is closer to the truth.” It’s worth remembering that skin is a barrier, not a sieve; the pharmaceutical industry would switch to patches instead of injections or pills if skin really was a highway to your internal organs.
FRESH, RAW PRODUCTS ARE THE MOST EFFECTIVE
Wrong. Skincare chemists like Dr Raffaella Gregoris of Bakel skincare recommend well-formulated organic cosmetics for nourishment and hydration. But, she says, don’t expect real anti-ageing or problem-solving results without biotechnology (the practice of engineering plant extracts
and organisms such as bacteria or yeast to create actives) and safe synthetic chemicals. Both are harmless, but not allowed in certified organic brands or used in ‘raw’ products.
How ‘pseudo’ are your naturals?
There are legions of labels that indicate ‘naturality’ in products (which basically means nothing). Be perplexed no more with this tear-out-and-quote-from guide.
NATURAL
Means: Precisely nothing. Most products have some natural ingredients (such as, er, water). If a brand wants to disproportionately big those up, it can go right ahead.
Look for: Products stating a high percentage of natural ingredients (90% plus). But check the ‘nonnatural’ portion isn’t just the sulphates and petrochemicals you might not like.
Gold star if: The product is Nature-certified. This tag means the natural and the small portion of man-made compounds sanctioned are strictly regulated, water can’t be counted towards the percentage of naturals, and ecological and ethical production is enforced.
ORGANIC
Means: Very little. Put an organically farmed carrot in your cold cream and watch the money roll in; there is no legislation that prevents you marketing it as an organic brand.
Look for: Only official certification guarantees plenty of organic ingredients, and strict limitations on use and processing of ones that are not.
“‘Free from’ can be like ‘fat-free’ foods laden with sugar”
“Sulphates can cause chronic dryness even after you rinse”
Cosmos, Ecocert and the American USDA are decent certifications.
Gold star if: The Soil Association tag is the gold standard, guaranteeing you a minimum of 70% organics. The rest has to be natural, with brands, producers and processes routinely vetted for standards.
FREE FROM
Means: What you leave out of cosmetics, such as useless fillers and potential irritants (preservatives, emulsifiers, etc), is more important than the amount of natural compounds you put in.
Look for: A long list of exclusions. “Beware big ‘free from’ labels on products that exclude one or two ‘nasties,’ but leave most others in,” says Corinne Morley of Trilogy.“I compare it to ‘fat-free’ foods laden with sugar.”
Gold star if: Brands that state a hefty level of naturals and a free-from list, like Yes To, REN and Soaper Duper. After official natural certifications, it’s the next best thing for knowing you’re getting value for your money.
CLEAN
Means: ‘Free from’ by another name – but it sounds much more Instagramready, as it piggybacks on the ‘cleaneating’ ethos that is all the rage.
Look for: The ‘free from’ rules apply. There is no clear evidence those ‘halo’ cosmetics that make a big play about their ‘fresh’ ingredients, vegan ethos or ‘detoxing’ credentials will make you look better than their dirty stop-out ‘chemical’ counterparts. But, insist marketeers, the sense of “holistic wellbeing” they bring is “really important to the modern consumer”. That’s you told.
CHEMICAL-FREE
Means: Diddly-squat. Ignores the fact that almost everything in nature, including water, is a chemical. May mean ‘synthetic chemicals’ – of which, explains Bakel’s Gregoris, there are “many highly effective and non-toxic examples”. Could mean ‘harsh chemicals,’ such as those the ‘free from’ brigade eschews. Just guessing.
Look for: Don’t bother.
VEGAN
Means: Free from animal derivatives (honey, lanolin, cholesterol, carmine, etc). Most, but not all, vegan products are also cruelty-free testing. Many have ethical and natural standards, but it’s entirely possible to make a vegan beauty product full of dubious synthetics. Bandwagoners who associate anything ‘vegan’ with health and looking like Beyoncé, take note.
Look for: If you take your animal and planet lovin’ seriously, seek out both Vegan Society and Leaping Bunny certifications.
As nasty as they wanna be
Beauty’s top ‘nasties’ are becoming increasingly unpopular. What have you really got to fear from these contested ingredients and what are the alternatives? Let’s get real.
Er, what? They are sudsy detergents that cut through grease. What’s the problem?
“Nothing foams like sodium lauryl and sodium laureth sulphate (SLS and SLES), if you don’t mind that they can cause chronic dryness even after you rinse them off,” says Marcia Kilgore of Soaper Duper. But sulphates, especially the aforementioned duo, are unbeatable de-greasers, which is why big beauty brands hate replacing them.
Any alternatives? Itchy, flaky scalp sufferers are invariably ‘cured’ in days after I suggest users switch to sulphate-free shampoo. As far as I’m concerned, your hair and skin are better off with milder suds from glucosides and betaines (check your ingredients list for those).
ETHOXYLATED INGREDIENTS
Er, what? These detergents and emulsifiers have been subjected to a chemical process called ethoxylation. The suffix –eth or acronyms MEA, DEA and TEA give them away.
What’s the problem? “Over time, these can react with other ingredients to form carcinogens,” says Gregoris. “How long that takes depends on the product’s pH, exposure to light and heat, and other factors.”
Any alternatives? These so-called ‘nitrosaminating agents’ are carefully controlled by law, but Gregoris nonetheless advises throwing out cosmetics containing them when the period-after-opening (PAO, look for the little jar symbol) expires.
PETROCHEMICALS
Er, what? Anything made out of petroleum. Petroleum jelly and mineral oil are moisturisers that lock in water like clingfilm.
What’s the problem? They don’t do anything else, such as nourishing
skin. Butyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol and countless other petrochemicals are not so inert: they can sensitise skin, while rather a few experts in the natural camp roundly call them ‘toxic.’ Any alternatives? Petrochemicals are everywhere, but certified natural and organic brands, plus most freefrom brands, don’t use any as there are myriad harmless substitutes.
PEG AND PPG
Er, what? They are glycols, used to make ingredients emulsify and skin permeable, so products can penetrate. What’s the problem? “These two petrochemical glycols are notoriously irritating,” says Gregoris, who points out PEG and PPG are also ethoxylated. Any alternatives? Plant-derived caprylyl glycol is a gentler option, while there are many glycol-free ways to penetrate skin, including the use of sebum-like plant oils.
PARABENS
Er, what? Preservatives that “have unfortunately become a byword for ‘danger,’ so now the industry is pretty much forced to bin them altogether”, says Pai Skincare’s Brown.
What’s the problem? The dodgy ones are irritants and said to mimic hormones. But despite scare stories, there’s very little evidence of them actually disrupting the endocrine system.
Any alternatives? Go for airless pump dispensers, which require fewer or no preservatives. Watch out for MI (or MIT), a paraben alternative that’s caused an epidemic of eczema. The EU banned it from creams, but not from wash-off products.
SILICONES AND SILICONE BEADS
What’s the problem? Too many of these plasticky-rubber substances will dry out skin and hair, but the main gripe? They are not biodegradable.
Any alternatives? Substituting them in smoothing hair products and make-up is a headwreck, but things like ‘intelligent’ micro-powders and plant-based proteins are just two new alternatives available on the market.
CLEANSING WIPES
What’s the problem? Mounting up in a landfill near you where they will stay for all eternity, joined by copious quantities of sheet masks.
Any alternatives? Choose cotton masks and wipes made of plant-based cellulose – Yes To are leading the compostable charge here.
“Parabens have become a byword for ‘danger’”