Cosmopolitan (UK)

The new rules of SPF

Sun protection has come a long way… but have you?

-

Not so long ago, in a time called the ’90s, we were told we had to start wearing something called SPF. We weren’t quite sure what it was, but we knew that it was chalky, it sometimes gave us spots, and that if we didn’t slap it on our faces/arms/ears (the list of body parts seemed to expand with time), then we would suffer the dual fates of sultana-skin or, far worse, skin cancer.

Since then, the sun-care market has forged ahead at Usain-Bolt speed, with new innovation­s, formulas and need-to-know essentials building every day. The problem: very few of us have caught up.

Ready for a refresh? Here’s exactly what you need to know about sun cream, right now…

How to factor up

The new SPFs, especially for the face, come with higher factors than you might be used to seeing. SPF30 is the benchmark, but 40, 45 and 50 are becoming more common. “American studies have shown that SPF values are much lower when people actually use the products,” explains Dr Mervyn Patterson, cosmetic dermatolog­ist at Woodford Medical. Why? Because the skin’s barrier function is rarely at its optimum. Skin conditions such as rosacea, genetics, dehydratio­n and using products with retinoids or glycolics, which leave skin vulnerable, will all stop sunscreen binding properly to skin, therefore reducing its efficacy.

WE SAY Use the same principle you would when buying a crisp white shirt, and go one size up. In other words, if you’re used to wearing SPF15, invest in an SPF20 or SPF30. Think of it as an automated back-up system for your skin.

The rules of applicatio­n

If, like many of us, you wait until you hit your sun lounger before dousing yourself in SPF, then we hate to break it to you, but you’re doing it all wrong.“Apply SPF to cool, dry skin at least half an hour before going out, then reapply just before you leave to maximise a product’s level of protection,” says Patterson. Thirty minutes allows the cream to fully bind to the outer layers of the skin and, unless you’re an excessive sweater or hitting the water, your protection will last longer, says Patterson. UV filters do degrade throughout the day, however, so regular top-ups are a must.

New SPF lingo

Noticed the letters ‘PA’ next to your SPF? It stands for ‘protection against.’ Whereas SPF concentrat­es on UVB (ultraviole­t B) rays and refers to how well a formula stops the burning and reddening of skin, PA monitors UVA (ultraviole­t A) rays, and how effective a product is at preventing the darkening of skin’s actual pigment. Infrared, visible light, heat and pollution are also on the watch list, so hunt out products that shield your skin from those, too – if they do, it will be splashed across the front.

Sprays are back

OK, so maybe you missed the memo, but those lovely spray SPFs we all went doolally over came under fire a few years back when experts voiced concerns about how much product was actually making it onto the skin. (Clinique even went as far as to take theirs off the market.) However, rigorous testing has led to a re-emerging market in the form of a new breed of SPF face mists (check out Garnier, Bioderma and La RochePosay). According to La Roche-Posay’s men in white coats, spraying from forehead to chin in a Z-shape ensures all areas are covered – though may induce quizzical looks.

Swot up on symbolism

Ever noticed that jar-shaped icon on the side of your sun cream? Well, the number inside is the PAO (period after opening) that you can use it for. Referring to months, it’s worth noting when you opened it. Use it after this and the active ingredient­s start to become volatile, so your protection will be lowered. And if you didn’t use last year’s sun cream, as long as it’s in its cellophane and in a cool, dark place, it’ll have around a three-year shelf life. How do you know if it’s a goner? Pour some out, and if it’s yellowy or the texture separates, say bye-bye.

“If you’re used to wearing SPF15, invest in an SPF20”

 ??  ??

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from United Kingdom