THE HAIRY TRUTH
Why haircare brands are now all about going au naturel
Haircare ingredients now read less like a periodic table and more like a garden-centre shopping list. Here’s what you need to know about putting your locks on a chemical detox…
Let’s face it, haircare brands have always tried to align themselves with nature – orgasmicfaced models lathering up under waterfalls and prancing around fields stroking flowers. The truth is, while skincare has been busy ditching chemicals and harnessing the power of plant-based ingredients for years, haircare has been hiding in a corner with its ingredients list to the wall, whispering, “Don’t look at me,” in a creepy Christina Aguilera voice. But, due to a sharp rise in scalp sensitivity and hair loss, plus a genuine concern for our planet, big brands are catching up with ahead-of-the-curve niche ones, launching natural franchises faster than you can say “Hello, petal”.
What makes a product natural?
Good question. There are no legal standards in the UK, so even if a formula’s synthetic ingredients far outweigh its homegrown ones, it can still have the word ‘natural’ emblazoned across its grass-green packaging and not a rule is broken. If you see a certified stamp from a body such as Soil Association or COSMOS (COSMetic
Organic Standard) on a product, its percentage of natural and organic ingredients, farming conditions, sustainability and eco footprint have all been scrutinised and deemed up to scratch – hurrah! But that’s not to say you should run screaming from all non-stamped products – synthetic doesn’t automatically mean bad. “All cosmetic ingredients have to be considered safe under the EU Cosmetic Regulations, natural or not,” confirms trichologist and My Hair Doctor founder Guy Parsons. The next best thing to a stamp is a ‘free-from’ claim, likely to be followed by one or all of the following ingredients: parabens, sulphates (also known as surfactants or foaming agents), phthalates and silicones.
Why are these dudes on the free-from list?
They all do a job, but sometimes to the detriment of your hair or scalp health. For example, sulphates create foam to cut through grease but can gobble up natural oils, too, leaving hair stripped and scalps sensitive. Silicones are essentially a waterproof coating that reflects light and fakes shine. But they’re a bit like an overzealous doorman, also denying entry to essential moisture and conditioners. They have a tendency to cling on and build up over time, requiring harsher surfactants to budge them – vicious circle, much?
Dang! So why aren't all brands banning these baddies?
Because it’ll cost them “Parabens and sulphates are very cheap for hair companies, which is why we have to pay more for free-from products,” says pharmacognosist (an expert in the study of natural products) and co-founder of Modern Botany, Dr Simon Jackson.“But inevitably, the more people use them, the more the price will come down.” People love a lather
You know how bad boys are no good for you but give you all the feels? And the nice-guy alternatives who call when they say they will just don’t feel as satisfying? There are plenty of milder yet foamy-as-you-like surfactants, it’s just about finding the ones that hit the (grease) spot.“Replace the likes of sodium lauryl sulphate and ammonium lauryl sulphate with milder, coconut-derived alternatives,” advises Dr Jackson. “Cocamidopropyl betaine seems to be the favourite among brands.” No one wants a mouldy shampoo
Without chemical preservatives, bacteria would have a party in your products. Parabens are preservatives that are regularly on free-from lists. Why? Because several are potential skin irritants and hormone disruptors, and people have heard enough to play it safe. The same concerns also surround phthalates, used to improve products’ pliability and extend scent. Glossy hair equals healthy hair, right?
Wrong. As mentioned, silicones are great for faking gloss, but they also act as a barrier to any real nourishment.“My advice?” says Dr Jackson.“Cut them out.” But if (like two thirds of the beauty desk) your hair is fine, dry and prone to knots, you’ll need to get your detangling fix elsewhere. “Behentrimonium chloride [derived from rapeseed oil] is a long molecule with a positive charge at one end,” says Noughty Haircare botanical bod Jennifer Hirsch.“This means it’s attracted to the damaged parts of the hair, attaching itself where needed and bringing the charged environment back to neutral.” In layman’s terms, it forms a cuticle-smoothing film without the heavy downsides of silicone. Cosmopolitan
The big oil con
You know that popular mainstream oil you’ve been smothering on for years? Check the ingredients list – see any dimethicone lurking near the top? That’s right, your ‘conditioning’ wonder oil is, in fact, silicone-based. Instead, look for ‘long-chain fatty acids’ like argan oil.“Dry, coarse or afro hair can really soak them up,” explains Dr Jackson. But that’s not to say those with fine hair can’t treat it with plantbased oils, too. “Abyssinian oil is becoming popular for finer hair, as it’s light and water-soluble so it doesn’t build up and leave hair greasy.” Give Tropic Hair Smooth Radiance Oil, £24, a go. Or ease yourself in with oil-infused haircare, such as the Tweak’d By Nature Dhatelo Restore Hair Strengthening range, from £23, with light-asyou-like dhatelo seed oil.