ISRAEL Jerusalem and Tel Aviv
For history and the high life
The city bit
Pop on your Supergas and make sure you do some dynamic stretching because Jerusalem is all about the walking. Start with a wander around the old town. You’ll need at least half a day, if not an entire one, to navigate the labyrinthine mass of cobbled streets, building in time to haggle for leather bags, silver jewellery and shabby-chic homewares from the vendors that spill out of every stone storefront. This 3,000-year-old city is divided into quarters, (Jewish, Armenian, Muslim and Christian). To get a bird’s-eye view and escape the crowds at street level, head to the Austrian Hospice rooftop for panoramic vistas across both old and new Jerusalem. Formerly a – you guessed it – hospice, it’s now a guesthouse with a peaceful garden café at the back serving excellent coffee.
Destination refuel
You think you’ve had falafel, but really you haven’t had it at all until you’ve had it in Jerusalem. Pretty much any cart on any street corner will dish out fluffy balls of chickpea goodness that are better than the pretenders you find back home – but those in the know get a taxi to Shalom Falafel in Nachlaot. For dinner, locals quite rightly rave about Satya – a low-lit joint serving up Mediterranean fare. It’s so full of bohemian types in directional eyewear, you’d be forgiven for thinking you’re in a Florence And The Machine video. For a less sedate (read: more hipster) experience, head to The Culinary Workshop for cocktails, inventively delicious small plates and all the man-buns a girl could wish for. If you have time, swing by The American Colony Hotel in the day for a burger and a pose by the pool, or after dark for a nightcap in the hidden walled garden.
Check in at…
Lay your head on the frankly quite giant beds
at the Waldorf Astoria. It’s smack bang in the centre of town, right next to the quietly stylish Mamilla Mall and just 10 minutes’ walk from the old town. Load up on homemade chocolate babka (a kind of bready cake, and way better than we’re making it sound) at the breakfast buffet, drink in the signature hotel scent that fills the lobby (you can also take it home) and don’t forget to have a cocktail on their rooftop before you leave. From around £267 per night; Waldorfastoria3.hilton.com
The beach bit
Get a bus or taxi an hour down the motorway to Tel Aviv. Israel’s party town, it’s a heady mix of pristine wide sandy beaches, food markets, fashion boutiques and some of the best nightlife you’ll find anywhere in the world. Spend your days stand-up paddle-boarding in Jaffa Port (or, if that’s too much hard work, just grab brunch and stock up on artisanal jewellery and art in Jaffa’s hillside maze of streets). For the best beach buzz, head to Herzliya, where the moneyed crowd hang out till sunset.
Check in at…
For access to the best Herzliya beaches (and all the yacht porn), bed in at Herods’ new outpost on Herzliya Marina. Rooms are modern, the pool serves cocktails and the breakfast buffet is truly IMMENSE. Rooms from £167 per night; Herods-hotels.com
Destination refuel
You’d have to try really hard to eat badly in this city. In the day, head to Carmel Market – a glorious, colourful, loud food haven where locals go to shop. Stock up on halva (blocks of sesame paste in different flavours) and pop into one of the houmous bars tucked behind the stalls of spices and fruit. Night-time is when Tel Aviv really comes alive. For swanky fine dining (and the chance to spot a supermodel or three), try Aria – modern Israeli cuisine done in an Instagrammable way. Then, to make sure you end up in the best bars, book a crawl with Tel Aviv Nights. A guide will meet you at your restaurant of choice and take you to three or four different bars (which we promise are not Israel’s answer to All Bar One) – leaving you to dance the night away in whichever one happens to be your favourite. Teder and Speakeasy on Rothschild Boulevard are two mustvisits. Bar tours from £24 per person; Tlvnights.com ›