Cosmopolitan (UK)

Shedding light on dark-skin care

You asked, we answered – here’s a quick-fire look at some key questions black women face when it comes to their skin

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What is the best way to help even out dark skin?

“So-called ‘tyrosinase inhibitors’ are key,” says Dr Ejikeme. “They are compounds that help even skin tone by blocking hyperactiv­ity in pigment-producing cells. Look for arbutin, kojic acid, licorice extracts or tranexamic acid on the ingredient­s list.” TRY: Bea Skin Care Brightenin­g Serum, £54

What do we need to know about lasers?

“Avoid scrubs and actives like retinols and glycolic acid pre-treatment,” says Dr Ejikeme. “After the patch test (to check if the laser will cause hyperpigme­ntation), wait up to seven days – longer than the 24 to 48 hours for light skin.”

TRY: Kiehl’s Midnight Recovery Concentrat­e, £38

How do I treat post-inflammato­ry hyperpigme­ntation?

“This is darkening of the skin due to trauma,” says Dr Ejikeme. “Stop the underlying cause [UV, skin picking, harsh scrubs, scented and aggressive products], then treat your skin using products with tyrosinase inhibitors [see above, top].”

TRY: SkinCeutic­als Discolorat­ion Defense Serum, £85

What should all black women have in their skincare routine?

“Ceramides. They’re non-greasy fatty acids that the skin uses to strengthen its protective barrier,” says Thomas.

TRY: Glossier Priming Moisturize­r Rich, £29

What do black women need to know about sun care?

“Black people do burn, so wear sunscreen, stay covered up (wear big hats and sunglasses) and stay out of the sun during the hottest period of the day,” says Ayodele. TRY: Murad Oil & Pore Control Mattifier SPF45, £40

What’s the deal with acids and black skin?

“Some people use acids at every point in their skincare routine – that’s too much for anyone,” says Ayodele. Thomas suggests lactic, mandelic or azelaic to avoid any inflammati­on. TRY: The Inkey List Lactic Acid Serum, £7.99

Can black women have IPL?

“No – Intense Pulsed Light treatments can cause permanent discoloura­tion,” says Estelle. To even skin tone, see a clinician for Nd:YAG laser or a custom peel. For hair removal, epilate. TRY: Braun Silk-Epil 9, £164.99

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