The HAIR-OIL handbook
No matter how thick or fine, curly or straight your hair is, the re’s an oil out there to help with any of your mane concerns
Does the thought of slathering on a hair oil give you the ick? You’re not alone. So many people fear that as soon as they apply a little lubrication to their locks, their strands are going to look like they’ve been dipped into a deep-fat fryer. As a Black woman with thick Afro hair, oils have always been part of my beauty routine. However, my friends with finer Asian and European hair have long been wary about whether the benefits outweigh the cons. I’m here to tell you there is an oil to help with every hair type, whether it’s over-processed ends or a flaky scalp, and you can find a formula that won’t make you look like you’re channelling wet-look catwalk hair – unless that’s your vibe. Here’s a rundown of everything you need to know.
What’s the deal? One of the most well-known hair oils around, argan earned the nickname “liquid gold”, thanks to its universal appeal. “It’s a lovely light oil suitable for all hair types,” says Talisha Cox, owner of Elite Hair Lounge, London. “That being said, type 4 curls may need a little more, as it’s very lightweight.” In its most raw form, argan oil contains a mix of antioxidants (like vitamin E) and fatty acids. (Fun fact: the sebum our body naturally produces is made up of a high percentage of fatty acids too.) If you have dry hair, applying this oil is a good way to lubricate your strands when they’re looking a bit dull.
Try it: Moroccanoil Treatment, £32.85
This iconic treatment is great for applying to dry ends when your hair is damp for a silky feel.
What’s the deal? This oil has been working its way into countless haircare products over the years because of its stellar moisturising benefits. While so many other oils work on moisturising the outer layers of your strands, jojoba is made up of clever fats that can penetrate the outer layer of hair. This means it can nourish and repair beneath the surface – pretty cool, right? It’s often found in products for dry or chemically treated hair, but you can also use it in its raw form on the ends of your hair as an overnight treatment.
Try it: Ouai Hair Oil, £24
Smooth this through your hair after blow-drying or straightening for that post-salon shine.
What’s the deal? Manketti (also known as mongongo) oil is similar to argan oil in its makeup of fatty acids, but is a little more nutrient-rich with a higher fat and protein content, so it’s a great oil for those of us with brittle, weakened hair. Oils like manketti oil are also good for protecting the hair, as Paul Edmonds, Shu Uemura Art of Hair ambassador, says: “The right oil can not only make your strands feel stronger, softer and shinier, but it can help protect from external damaging factors.”
Try it: Charlotte Mensah Manketti Hair Oil, £48
Naturally curly hair will lap up this oil. Massage into the lengths to revive parched ends.
What’s the deal? Now, the qualities of this oil in its purest form are… interesting (the pale-yellow liquid has a distinct taste and odour). But trust me, you’ll be slathering it on when you know the benefits. It comes from the castor bean and is packed with ricinoleic acid, which is known to help with inflammation – great if you suffer from dandruff. It also stimulates the follicles, which can help hair growth, so if you fancy giving yourself a DIY head massage, this is the oil to pick. Try it: Jamaican Mango & Lime Black Castor Oil , £6.95
Massage a bit of this into the roots and you’ll be working towards longer, stronger locks.
What’s the deal? Yep, the same olive oil that’s sitting in your kitchen cupboard works a treat on the hair, but be warned: in its purest form it’s only going to work on the surface of the strands. “[Almond, coconut and olive oil] are all great, but they will only have a cosmetic effect as the molecule size is too large to penetrate the hair shaft,” says Edmonds. “So it’s better to look for the oil in a hair product, rather than its raw form, as it will have been refined and can do more for your strands.” Try it: Keracare Essential Oils, £7.59
You can use this nutrient-rich oil as a hot oil treatment before you wash your hair. Pop it on and let the reparative properties get to work.
What’s the deal? Coconut oil is undeniably a beauty multitasker – what else can be used to clean your teeth, take off your make-up and be thrown in a smoothie? It has loads of benefits for the hair, including calming frizz and helping to detangle. If you want to give your locks their shine back, apply raw coconut oil as a preshampoo treatment, as the concentration of fatty acids will coat the hair and protect it from stripping when you rinse. However, if you have brittle hair, be aware that using coconut oil too often can cause protein build-up, and too much protein in the hair will cause it to break.
Try it: Shu Uemura Essence Absolue Multi-Purpose All-In-Oil Milk, £33
If you have finer hair, this oil-in-milk formula will allow you to reap the benefits of coconut oil, without it weighing down the strands. COSMOPOLITAN · 27