Cosmopolitan (UK)

Hello, great skin!

If spots are plaguing you in your twenties and thirties, don’t do anything until you’ve read Carly Cardellino Vaccaro’s story ›

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hi, I work in beauty, I have for years, and I don’t have clear skin.

This is despite having access to the country’s best dermatolog­ists and the most cutting-edge treatments. The most frustratin­g part? I’m no longer 16 – I’m a grown-up. A spotty-faced adult. For me, acne is like that one frenemy who just keeps popping back into your life.

Here’s the hard truth: acne is almost always chronic, and it’s getting worse for adults – it’s not something you cure, but something you control. So buckle up, because I (and some people with actual, spot-fighting medical degrees) am going to show you how.

First, it helps to know that there are two main kinds of acne, teenage and adultonset, explains dermatolog­ist Dr Shari Marchbein. The former typically shows up in the T-zone (forehead, nose, chin), while adult acne tends to invade the jawline, mouth area, cheeks and neck. They both stem from four causes: bacteria in your skin, inflammati­on caused by said bacteria, enlarged oil glands and hormones.

Imbalanced hormones force your sebaceous glands (which spit out waxy, pore-clogging sebum) into action. This may provide a clue as to why breakouts have become a big problem for twentyand thirtysome­things recently, explains Dr Marchbein. “One theory we have now is that you have an increase of hormones in your skin that causes your oil glands to overproduc­e,” she says. This could be due to contracept­ion use.

In addition to hormones, though, there are a lot of other factors that can make adult-onset acne worse – and unfortunat­ely, they’re things many of us have to deal with every day…

STRESS

Feeling frazzled means the stress hormone cortisol is coursing through your body, triggering the inflammati­on that leads to flare-ups.

POLLUTION

Debris in the air can basically sit on your face, clogging pores and causing spots. Avoid this by using anti-pollution skincare ingredient­s like vitamin C.

PRODUCT OVERUSE

“People want to try every new beauty trend, but few consider what’s right for their skin,” says Dr Marchbein. Her recommenda­tion? Stay strong against Instagram beauty bombardmen­ts and pare back your regimen.

DIET

Eating a high-glycaemic diet (one that contains lots of sugar and refined carbohydra­tes), as well as consuming certain dairy products, could make you break out. “The latter contain a protein that spikes certain hormone receptors, creating acne,” explains Dr Marchbein.

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