What to drink this week

Any­thing from Davy’s Wine Mer­chants

Country Life Every Week - - Town & Country Notebook -

Some wine mer­chants fly—pretty suc­cess­fully—un­der the radar. They may not be as fa­mil­iar as cer­tain oth­ers with a pres­ence in the high street or sto­ried premises in St James’s, or beloved na­tional in­sti­tu­tions such as the Wine So­ci­ety, but they de­serve to be bet­ter known.

Why you should be buy­ing from them

For in­stance, I only re­cently cot­toned on to the fact that the ex­cel­lent chain of Davy’s Wine Bars, concentrated in the City of Lon­don, also op­er­ates an equally im­pres­sive re­tail out­fit un­der the name of Davy’s Wine Mer­chants. There are ob­vi­ous ad­van­tages in hav­ing a steady cus­tomer in the form of 23 wine bars, as James Davy, rep­re­sent­ing the fifth gen­er­a­tion of this fam­ily busi­ness, founded in 1870, ex­plained.

What to buy

A star at the re­cent Davy’s tast­ing was the grower Cham­pagne house of Duménil. Duménil Grande Re­serve Brut (be­low, £31.95/£30.35 case price; www.davy­wine.co.uk), made from one third each of Chardon­nay, Pinot Noir and Me­u­nier, has lovely rich­ness from a high pro­por­tion of re­serve wine and ex­cel­lent bal­ance. Even more tight and struc­tured is Duménil Les Pêcher­ines Vieilles Vignes Brut (£39.95/£37.95). Davy’s is also strong on white Bur­gundy. For every­day drink­ing, its chalky and fresh Côteaux Bour­guignon Blanc Le P’tit Bon­heur Mai­son Pas­cal Prunier-bon­heur (£17.95/ £17.05) is ex­cel­lent value. Another strength is the Rhône. I es­pe­cially en­joyed the peachy and beau­ti­fully tex­tured Con­drieu Les Ravines Do­maine Rémi Niero 2016 (£37/£35.15) and the spicy, soft, full-bod­ied Cairanne Cu­vée Col du Dé­bat Do­maine Les Hautes Cances 2015 (£26.50/£25.18).

This fam­ily busi­ness de­serves to be bet­ter known, be­lieves Harry Eyres

Newspapers in English

Newspapers from UK

© PressReader. All rights reserved.