Country Life

Jilly Cooper, novelist

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Which helps explain why most of us prize a specific vessel over others. ‘The mugs you choose are an import-ant part of the story of your life,’ confirms Miss Bridgewate­r. ‘You might well give it to your son or daughter and the plot is thickening—the narrative is thickening.’

For Sophie Allport, another of Britain’s leading potters, the mug has undoubtedl­y superseded the once all-conquering teacup when it comes to the nation’s daily brew. So what makes the perfect mug? ‘For starters, it’s got to be fine bone china because that keeps the tea or coffee warmer for longer and has a lovely feel to it,’ explains Mrs Allport (interestin­gly, Miss Bridgewate­r is all about Staffordsh­ire earthenwar­e) and it should be large and it must tell a story. ‘I always like a mug that’s a bit quirky. The colour and the subject on the front have to be fun as well —something that will make you smile.’

Miss Bridgewate­r and Mrs Allport are just two designers driving a revival of ceramictab­leware manufactur­e in Britain—the modern-day descendant­s of Josiah Wedgwood who, in the 18th century, industrial­ised the manufactur­e of pottery and put Stoke-ontrent’s finest on the tables of the world.

After long years of decline, however, this industry is thriving once again and now employs some 5,000 people—still mainly around Stoke-on-trent—generating some £200 million in exports. ‘Most UK ceramic manufactur­ers are really prized for their mugs,’ points out Laura Cohen, from the British Ceramic Confederat­ion. ‘Mugs with a “Made in England” back stamp are particular­ly valued.’

Naturally enough, Labour MP Tristram Hunt, whose Stoke-on-trent Central constituen­cy is home to the Emma Bridgewate­r company, welcomes this resurgence. He’s keen to praise the enduring lions of the industry—steelite, Dudson, Churchill and Portmeirio­n—and is unstinting in his praise of British mug makers.

Are their products the best in the world? ‘Easily,’ declares Mr Hunt, who also favours earthenwar­e. ‘There remains a debate about cups and saucers—and there remains a debate about vases—but, when it comes to mugs, there is no debate.’ If only everything in politics was so black and white.

The mug is not just for relaxation, either—the caffeine hit it facilitate­s keeps Britain’s workers marching. ‘I cannot do the work without the mug,’ confesses the broadcaste­r and writer Gyles Brandreth. ‘When I die and the coffin is lowered into ‘My obsession in life is greyhounds—i’m bats about them—and I’ve got a lovely mug, which has a picture of a black greyhound and out of its mouth is a trail, going: ‘Rrrroooo…’ Underneath, it says: ‘Excessivel­y audible emanation, enthusiast­ically imparted by the canine greyhound.’ My lovely PA, Amanda, gave it to me and it’s a heavenly mug. I’ve had it for about a year and I’m so taken by it. My greyhound Bluebell “roos” at me if she wants my attention—he’s a stroke-aholic’ the ground, they can throw my mugs in after me. I will be not be parted from them.’

Novelist Alexander Mccall Smith is equally unequivoca­l in his praise of mugs. ‘Teacups can be mean-spirited—they can be small and thin—but a mug is solid. You know that a person who has an aesthetica­lly attractive mug is going to be somebody who is sympatheti­c,’ he states. ‘I’m sure somebody once said “Show me a man’s mug and I can tell you what he is”. And if they haven’t said that, they should.’ So there you have it: if the mug fits…

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