Country Life

Singita Pamushana Lodge, Malilangwe Wildlife Reserve

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This is an extraordin­ary place; I haven’t been anywhere in the world to match it. The lodge comprises eight luxury suites and one villa, set all alone in about 300 square miles of wilderness that’s unfenced to the south.

Both our room and the lodge architectu­re were staggering. The service was exquisite; our guide, Alex, was a fount of wit and knowledge and the food was delicious. It was simply amazing, but none of that compared to what Nature had to offer. The reserve holds more than 2% of the world’s black-rhino population, roughly 150 animals. There are more black and white rhinos here than there are elephants.

The highlights (there are too many to mention, but…) l Rhino: guarded by 100 scouts, we ran into a black rhino while on a walking safari and saw many white ones. Will Anna be lucky enough to see another in the wild?

l The big five: at one point, we could see lions (there are several prides), elephants and rhinos at the same time. Herds of buffalo number more than 500 beasts, but the leopard eluded us this time

l Rock art: there are more than 100 ancient sites dating back 2,000-plus years—beautiful and inspiring

l Baobab trees: one has been estimated at 3,500 years old and, with a circumfere­nce of 114ft, is the most astonishin­g plant I’ve ever seen

l Fishing: big bream up to 7lb and tiger fish (several broke my line)

l The hide: hidden by a waterhole and a thrilling experience in patience— at one point, there were six white rhinos and a calf all drinking at once

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