Six Senses Residences & Spa, Courchevel 1850
Courchevel has 93 miles of brilliantly linked skiing, Europe’s highest altiport and more Michelin-starred restaurants than any other resort. It’s also the smartest village in Les 3 Vallées, but that’s not why I love it: it’s the tranquil tree-lined valleys and wilder, bleaker fringes, the openness of the valley and the changing pink-and-golden lights on the infinite peaks that draw me back most winters.
Since I worked here 30 years ago, Courchevel has become more international, more accessible and much more expensive. A restaurant in which, strange as it now seems, impecunious chalet girls would gather for a basic lunch will now set you back €20 for onion soup, €50 for a burger and €60 for the cheapest wine. This image needs addressing if this lovely place is to continue to attract families and young people, but Courchevel now undoubtedly excels in its thoughtfulness and attention to detail.
Every night, piste bashers light the mountainside, creating the best possible skiing conditions; areas that were once unpisted have been bashed into immaculate, sweeping runs and faster, even more efficient lifts have been created.
Signposting is immaculate and safety paramount; there’s always an easy way home for the nervous or weary.
The new Six Senses resort, in the heart of Courchevel 1850, is a bastion of such thoughtfulness. Every time you pass recep- tion, a friendly member of staff pops out to offer a lift somewhere. The ski hut at the foot of the slopes, where Chris or Amandine will offer local knowledge and help you escape your boots as you collapse on a furry seat, was bliss after the exhilaration —and exhaustion—of a day skiing the entire 3 Vallées circuit.
The apartments, which are let through Scott Dunn, are beautifully appointed. We loved the ipad music system on which we discovered a brilliant 1970s channel (Supertramp on a loop). A thoughtful basket of provisions included Champagne, cheesy nibbles and pasta and pesto sauce.
We enjoyed the daily bread and croissant delivery (there’s a supermarket underneath the building), but there’s also a Club Lounge for breakfast or evening drinks that offers light suppers.
There’s a Stargazers Club for children, plus evening childcare service with qualified nannies and, for grown-ups and fairweather skiers, a swish spa, with swimming pool, Kneipp footbath therapy and juice bar. KG Scott Dunn offers seven nights at the Scott Dunn at Six Senses Residences Courchevel, from £8,950 for a family of four, including British Airways return flights from London and private transfers (020–3733 4285; www.scottdunn.co.uk). A six-day 3 Vallées ski pass costs €300 (about £260)