Caught in a web of joy
Jeremy Taylor’s travels in an Alfa Romeo
FIFTY years ago, London was abuzz with talk of a new film that captured the spirit of the ‘Summer of Love’. The Graduate starred Dustin Hoffman in his first major screen role, famously steaming up the screen with seductress Mrs Robinson, played by Anne Bancroft. It made him famous, gave Simon & Garfunkel a string of hits—including The Sound of Silence and Mrs Robinson—and created a star out of a pretty Italian, the Alfa Romeo Spider. It only played a cameo role, but the red soft-top has symbolised romance and adventure ever since.
Back in the present, I’ve travelled to Italy in search of some authentic dolce vita in a classic convertible that could’ve been driven straight off the film set. The hired Alfa Romeo turns the heads of enthusiastic locals as we roar through the backroads of Tuscany.
Delightful from any angle, it’s also a joy to drive. However, the question remains: does a classic touring holiday on modern Italian roads really make for a romantic blockbuster or does it set the scene for a disastrous B-movie flop?
There’s little time to get acquainted with the Spider before I join the Milanese rushhour traffic. The dashboard controls are basic enough, but I’d recommend a map and a hand-held fan, too—satellite navigation wasn’t invented in the Swinging Sixties and, back then, air conditioning meant winding down the window.
I’m heading an hour’s drive north to Villa d’este, one of the world’s most celebrated hotels, at Cernobbio on the shores of Lake Como. Fortunately, the hotel more than lives up to its fêted—and romantic—reputation and it’s well worth the journey. Among the many couples to have graced its rooms are Ava Gardner and Frank Sinatra, Rita Hayworth and Orson Welles, Elizabeth Taylor and Nicky Hilton—although I can’t see Mrs Robinson on the guest list.
A former convent dating back to the 15th century, Villa d’este was once the home of Caroline of Brunswick, Princess of Wales, the estranged wife of the future George IV. The hotel remains a celebrity haunt, with neighbour George Clooney among the regulars.
If the magnificent vistas across the lake don’t impress, the sumptuous, classically styled bedrooms probably will. My room has a spectacular view of the floating swimming pool and mountains beyond—others face the stately gardens (COUNTRY LIFE Travel, 2015).
Italians celebrate their cars, something I discover the next day as the Alfa arrives at Belmond Villa San Michele, on a hillside
The Alfa turns the heads of enthusiastic locals as we roar through Tuscany
above Florence. The driveway up to the front door is swamped with classics taking part in a rally. There are several Spiders, but even they can’t detract from the beauty of this former monastery, a four-hour drive south from Lake Como.
The building is a refreshing mix of Renaissance atmosphere and 21st-century comforts, as well as some delightful modern artworks. There’s also a shuttle bus to the main sights of Florence, so guests can enjoy the relaxed, out-of-town location without feeling too cut off. The stepped gardens can accommodate spa treatments with a view or there’s the swimming pool—both good places to ease away the pains of driving a classic car on Italy’s pothole-dotted roads. No wonder the locals all drive robust SUVS.
Next, it’s a two-hour drive across the rolling hills of Tuscany to the coastal resort of Punta Ala, the seaside destination of choice for well-heeled Italians. Baglioni Hotel Cala Del Porto sits on a headland overlooking the smart marina and islands of Giglio and Montecristo. Many people come here to play in boats rather than cars, but, with the Spider’s roof down, I can already smell the sea air as I pull up to reception. There are plenty of photographs of the Dolce Vita era on the walls and the style is simple, coastal chic.
Later, I watch the sun sink over the island of Elba, where French emperor Napoleon was exiled for almost a year. It’s difficult to imagine a more romantic spot. I may not have Mrs Robinson on my arm, but I do have a star car waiting for me outside.