What to drink this week

Post-christmas cleansing

One of my least favourite new coinages in the English language is ‘detox’. I associate it with overpriced herbal teas and puritanical joylessness. However, even a bon vivant has to admit that there are times when a little cleansing is in order. My approach to this is not to veer towards total abstinence, but rather to go in the direction of wines of great purity, lightness and balance. You may already have guessed that I’m talking Riesling— and German Riesling at that.

For Harry Eyres, detox means a nice German Riesling

Why you should be drinking it

German Riesling is the one wine you can never tire of or feel sated by. Another reason for drinking it is that it’s still likely the most undervalued of all the world’s truly great wines.

What to buy

At entry level, a fine option is Mineralstein Riesling 2017 (£10; www. marksandspencer.com) from the Rheinpfalz. There’s the honeyed softness typical of this relatively warm region, then good acidity and minerality on the finish. Moving a short distance west to the idyllic Nahe valley, the Roxheimer Höllenpfad Riesling Trocken 2017 (below, £105 per six; www.justerinis.com) from the legendary Helmut Dönnhoff has great pure spiciness and a crisp, dry finish. From Mr Dönnhoff’s holding in one of the Nahe’s greatest vineyards, Niederhäuser Hermannshöhle Riesling Spätlese 2017 (£190 per six IB; www. justerinis.com) has beautiful citrus intensity and the perfect combination of power and finesse. Back in the Pfalz, I heartily commend two offerings from the excellent Ökonomierat Rebholz: Riesling vom Rotliegenden Trocken 2017 (£95 per six; www. justerinis.com) is expressive, pure and racy. Riesling Ganzhorn Grosses Gewächs 2017 (£205 per six; www.justerinis.com) is even more delicate and fresh, with notes of white and yellow peach—a wine of graceful poise.